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Early Winter Couloir
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British AI2-3 M4+ A1
Avg: 3.4 from 9
votes
Routes in North Early Winter Spire
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Chockstone Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M1-2 Easy Snow |
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Early Winter Couloir T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3 M4+ A1 |
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Flycatcher Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Labor Pains T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-Pollack Route) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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West Face, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 1100 ft (333 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 48.51291, -120.65557 |
| FA: | Gary Brill and Lowell Skoog - 5/6/78 |
| Page Views: | 5,478 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Hebert on Apr 6, 2015 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
The aesthetic and obvious couloir splitting North and South Early Winters Spires is in shape for a few weeks immediately after the pass opens each spring during April and early May. The route passes three large chockstones, surmounts a cornice, and then ascends rock to the summit of North Early Winters Spire.
P1 - climb AI2 past the first large chockstone and continue up 45-55 degree snow to a good rock anchor on the left
P2 - ascend 40-degree snow to below the crux chockstone
P3 - drytool past the chockstone with a #3 cam and ascend 45-65 degree snow to a cave below the last chockstone
P4 - climb past the last chockstone and up to the cornice
P5 - choose your own adventure past the cornice (aid on the left, tunnel through, or slabby rock to the right)
P6 - ascend snow over rock to a corner system left of an overhanging roof to the summit plateau
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