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> N Early Winter Spire
Early Winter Couloir
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British AI2-3 M4+ A1
Type: | Trad, Aid, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 1100 ft (333 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Gary Brill and Lowell Skoog - 5/6/78 |
Page Views: | 5,259 total · 42/month |
Shared By: | Jeff Hebert on Apr 6, 2015 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
The aesthetic and obvious couloir splitting North and South Early Winters Spires is in shape for a few weeks immediately after the pass opens each spring during April and early May. The route passes three large chockstones, surmounts a cornice, and then ascends rock to the summit of North Early Winters Spire.
P1 - climb AI2 past the first large chockstone and continue up 45-55 degree snow to a good rock anchor on the left
P2 - ascend 40-degree snow to below the crux chockstone
P3 - drytool past the chockstone with a #3 cam and ascend 45-65 degree snow to a cave below the last chockstone
P4 - climb past the last chockstone and up to the cornice
P5 - choose your own adventure past the cornice (aid on the left, tunnel through, or slabby rock to the right)
P6 - ascend snow over rock to a corner system left of an overhanging roof to the summit plateau
P1 - climb AI2 past the first large chockstone and continue up 45-55 degree snow to a good rock anchor on the left
P2 - ascend 40-degree snow to below the crux chockstone
P3 - drytool past the chockstone with a #3 cam and ascend 45-65 degree snow to a cave below the last chockstone
P4 - climb past the last chockstone and up to the cornice
P5 - choose your own adventure past the cornice (aid on the left, tunnel through, or slabby rock to the right)
P6 - ascend snow over rock to a corner system left of an overhanging roof to the summit plateau
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