Type: Trad, Aid, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 1100 ft (333 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Gary Brill and Lowell Skoog - 5/6/78
Page Views: 3,337 total · 45/month
Shared By: Jeff Hebert on Apr 6, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details

Description

The aesthetic and obvious couloir splitting North and South Early Winters Spires is in shape for a few weeks immediately after the pass opens each spring during April and early May. The route passes three large chockstones, surmounts a cornice, and then ascends rock to the summit of North Early Winters Spire.
P1 - climb AI2 past the first large chockstone and continue up 45-55 degree snow to a good rock anchor on the left
P2 - ascend 40-degree snow to below the crux chockstone
P3 - drytool past the chockstone with a #3 cam and ascend 45-65 degree snow to a cave below the last chockstone
P4 - climb past the last chockstone and up to the cornice
P5 - choose your own adventure past the cornice (aid on the left, tunnel through, or slabby rock to the right)
P6 - ascend snow over rock to a corner system left of an overhanging roof to the summit plateau

Location

The gully between North and South Early Winters Spire, straight up from the hairpin turn on the East side of the formation

Protection

3-5 pins, set of nuts, cams .4-3"
Optional pickets and ice screws

Photos