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> N Early Winter Spire
Early Winter Couloir
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British AI2-3 M4+ A1
Avg: 3.3 from 6
votes
Routes in North Early Winter Spire
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Chockstone Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Easy Snow |
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Early Winter Couloir T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3 M4+ A1 |
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Flycatcher Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Labor Pains T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-Pollack Route) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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West Face, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 1100 ft (333 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Gary Brill and Lowell Skoog - 5/6/78 |
| Page Views: | 4,449 total · 45/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Hebert on Apr 6, 2015 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
The aesthetic and obvious couloir splitting North and South Early Winters Spires is in shape for a few weeks immediately after the pass opens each spring during April and early May. The route passes three large chockstones, surmounts a cornice, and then ascends rock to the summit of North Early Winters Spire.
P1 - climb AI2 past the first large chockstone and continue up 45-55 degree snow to a good rock anchor on the left
P2 - ascend 40-degree snow to below the crux chockstone
P3 - drytool past the chockstone with a #3 cam and ascend 45-65 degree snow to a cave below the last chockstone
P4 - climb past the last chockstone and up to the cornice
P5 - choose your own adventure past the cornice (aid on the left, tunnel through, or slabby rock to the right)
P6 - ascend snow over rock to a corner system left of an overhanging roof to the summit plateau
P1 - climb AI2 past the first large chockstone and continue up 45-55 degree snow to a good rock anchor on the left
P2 - ascend 40-degree snow to below the crux chockstone
P3 - drytool past the chockstone with a #3 cam and ascend 45-65 degree snow to a cave below the last chockstone
P4 - climb past the last chockstone and up to the cornice
P5 - choose your own adventure past the cornice (aid on the left, tunnel through, or slabby rock to the right)
P6 - ascend snow over rock to a corner system left of an overhanging roof to the summit plateau
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