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Routes in North Early Winter Spire

Chockstone Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Easy Snow
Early Winter Couloir T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3 M4+ A1
Labor Pains T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-Pollack Route) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West Face, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: 1988
Page Views: 415 total, 15/month
Shared By: wayne wallace on Aug 17, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

There are 3- 5.11a pitches on the route, each slighly more devious than the last. The Rock is great, the climbing superb, gear is adequate to good.
Start on Chockstone route then head up left towards ledge with clean slab above. Full 60m
p2 follow clean cracks up slab to corner with wide section to pinch .
p3 is a fun, steep outing up and left through overhangs on fun flakes.
p4 is fierce and not-so-obviously goes up to wild overhang then left and up to easy slabs

Location

in between Chockstone route and West Face.

Protection

one and a half sets of everything is fine, single on 2,3, didnt take a 4. Include tiny cams, stoppers/brassies.

Photos

I was with John, and this route is R in it's current state. Plus the Supertopo shows gear to 2 inches when you really need gear to 4 inches (which their written description states...we just looked at the topo). The last pitch just looked WAY too dicey...hard climbing off what is essentially a one-bolt belay. It looked to me like if you fell on the last 5.11 crux up higher and pulled the bad pin you would likely zipper whatever funky gear you might have gotten in and take a massive factor 2 whipper onto the belay. We wisely bailed. Fun climbing but you better enjoy this kind of dangerous gnarl...I don't. Jul 25, 2016
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
Fun, in a uniquely terrifying sense. Like Wayne states in his second TR, if a few of the pins could be replaced with bolts, and the P3 anchor could be updated (one if the bolts is very sketchy), then this would be an outstanding route! I'm not advocating bolting the adventure out if it, but it is borderline dangerous as is. Jul 25, 2016
wayne wallace
Seattle
 
wayne wallace   Seattle
 
Did it again this year! Labor Pains part 2 Jun 1, 2016
wayne wallace
Seattle
 
wayne wallace   Seattle
 
Did a trip report on this outstanding climb. waynewallace.wordpress.com/… Aug 17, 2015