Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: MJM & RAMM, 2/2015
Page Views: 824 total · 17/month
Shared By: MJM on Feb 21, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


53 Opinions

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Description

Climb nice low pockets on the lefty tan face to clip C1. Move to the corner and clip C2 out left. Jog left up to C3. Move straight up past 5 clips on great holds with some pretty sharp rock and big feet to a break under the final 3 clip right-trending headwall. With steeper rock, clip C9 and grab great holds with matching feet to and through C11 to the anchors.

Location

Start just left of Mighty Aphrodite.

Protection

11 clips to chained anchors.

Photos

Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
The climbing on this is really fun - steep with big holds - like you would find in the climbing gym.

However, this route has more suspect rock than any other climb I have done at Shelf Road.

A 20 foot "pillar" of rock starts at the 4th bolt. It consists of a bunch of various sized blocks stacked on top of each other. Also, there are numerous smaller pieces of rock crammed along the other blocks.

The worst block is at clip 9, where the dihedral starts, with a 3' diameter block that moves if you barely touch it.

The stance at the top is awkward and somewhat hanging.

Be very careful if you climb this, and I would have the belayer stand off to the side. Definitely don't have a group standing around the base. Mar 2, 2017
Matt B
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Matt B   Boulder, CO
  5.8
I didn't experience any loose rock on this climb, but there was a large pile of animal feces in the starting crack, which was a bit gross. Despite this, the route has a couple awkward moves but lots of fun climbing on mostly big holds.

Be aware that this route is mislabeled on the topo in the newest guidebook. This is the second bolted route left of the gaping crack that separates this wall from 2150 proper. It starts in a corner then follows the bolt line on the left face up to the anchors at the very top of the wall, visible from the bottom, on a dark bulge. Clipping the anchors requires a couple strange moves on sub-optimal holds, so have something longer than a standard draw to clip in with, unless you're really comfortable at the grade.

Don't get this route confused with Mighty Aphrodite on the right (a great route BTW), which is the first bolted line on this face and starts on a small detached block just left of the detached pillar. Again, the topo in the new guidebook is off by a few meters. Apr 1, 2018