Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,730 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


96 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This climbs the awesome steep and fun crack on the right side of 2150 Wall. Layback and jam if you want to up the fun crack. The crux comes at top just past the end of the crack on the face moves above.

Protection

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

During the crux dyno, on the bolt ladder, i heard a cry from above "Tongue OUT". Beware, it reaks of TKO! Feb 7, 2002
The guidebook rates this one as a 11a/b, but I think Jesse's rating is more accurate. Fun route, but if you're at the 2150 wall try the other ones. Good routes on a sweet slab with sharp edges and limestone pockets. Dec 30, 2002
Not absolutely sure, but I recall that Bob Robertson did the F.A. on this one. May 22, 2003
Darin Lang
  5.10d
Darin Lang  
  5.10d


Probably 11a/b if you avoid the obvious arete holds between the last bolt and the anchor. May 22, 2003
Andrew Caraballo
Milwaukie, OR
 
Andrew Caraballo   Milwaukie, OR
 
Super fun, good for gear placement practice! Nov 8, 2009
karl Maes
Laramie, Wyoming
karl Maes   Laramie, Wyoming
I can do any .10, and this goes down as one of the pumpier, harder ones with a gnarly end. I used a size 7 nut before the last bolt, 'cause I'm a pussy, but it was well worth it, 'cause that's the crux and the last route of the day. Jul 7, 2012
dancesatmoonrise
  5.10d
dancesatmoonrise  
  5.10d
I love this crack. Very fun route. The crack section is soft for the grade, compared to other trad lines. But the face up top is hard, and not nearly as much fun.

The two top anchor bolts are into rock which has cracked loose about an inch above the bolts. A third bolt was apparently added, at left and lower, but is a loose 3/8" stud with a 1/2" cold shut hanger. This anchor needs to be replaced. Dec 15, 2012
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Did this today with Dancesatmoonrise, Jim, and damn near got the onsight but slipped at the last bolt. Very enjoyable and new favorite! A definite must do. Oct 10, 2013
Replaced anchor in 2018. I usually strive to reuse old holes, but I had to drill a new one due to poor placement. Both original anchor studs sheared with a 6" wrench. I ran out of epoxy, but I will patch old holes next time I am in the area. Hardware courtesy ASCA, consider a donation today. Safeclimbing.org. Feb 19, 2018