Type: Sport
FA: Bob D'antonio and Richard Aschert
Page Views: 1,830 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

Awesome climb just right of crack in the center of 2150 wall (Ripped 10c 4" no stars). Living ... belays just off of the tree, Taping Tendons (11c/d) is to right. Direct start to first bolt is 12d. Standard variation is to stem up the crack, reaching over to clip the first bolt, then traversing just right of the bolt to tackle the sequential crux. Don't worry, it may give you a brief rest after this, but it doesn't ever completely let up until you are at the anchors.

Protection

7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Stick clip 1st bolt IF doing direct start.

Photos

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Joe Collins  
 
So, how does the 12a version go? I initially tried traversing from the pillar on the left with my hands in pockets at the 2nd bolt (there are 8 or 9 bolts on the route now). Moving up here was desperate, and felt way harder than 12a (harder than the cruxes of several 12+ Gym routes I tried the day before). I finally ended up climbing to the top of the pillar and traversing in with hands in pockets near the 3rd bolt, which felt reasonable, though reachy.

This route, along with all the others on 2150 wall, are VERY sharp (great routes though!), and should probably be avoided on your second day "on" at Shelf. Oct 18, 2004
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.12a
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.12a
I felt the same way. Originally I tried to traverse right at the second bolt like it says in the book, but this felt contrived and much harder than .12a. Went back to the jug and climbed up until my feet were on it at the third bolt, then traversed onto the face. This felt like the most natural way to climb this thing, and about right for the grade.

The direct start is heinous. Couldn't figure it out. Jan 15, 2011
Rebolted in 2015. Hardware courtesy of the ASCA. Consider a donation today @ safeclimbing.org. Oct 25, 2015
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Unfortunately, the crux is contrived and can be avoided. Direct line is solid 12+ crimping on some really slippery rock. Overall a great route though.... Jan 24, 2016