Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Darryl Roth, Dave Dangle, and Rich Aschert
Page Views: 3,217 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


90 Opinions

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Description

This is another great 2150 Route, just left of the namesake crack (105750055 - 5.10d) and right of Taping Tendons (11d). It climbs through thin bouldery moves and continues through thin delicate moves to the top.

Protection

7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

I first did (try) this route years ago but it was only rated .10d or so in my guidebook, and thought it was way hard at that grade. Aug 17, 2001
Crimpy and sustained. My guidebook had it at 11c, but it felt harder due to the sustained nature of it. There are probably more than 10 5.11 moves on this one. Definitely requires good footwork. Killer crimp strength wouldn't hurt either. Dec 30, 2002
[Definitely] a solid 11b/c harder for shorter folk. due to the two rests i wouldn't have thought it harder... Sep 7, 2004
richard magill
  5.11c
richard magill  
  5.11c
Continuous and fun! Lots of tricky sequences right off the ledge at the first bolt. May 8, 2005
So, I did the FA along with Dave Dangle and Rich Aschert. It seems that the grade has been the most disputed in the history of Shelf. The day that I did it, it seemed pretty easy. It's typical Shelf piss crimping, and I was light as a feather at the time (5'10" and 135 lbs) so it may have been a bit sparing on the grade, but not an intentional sandbag. Whatever it is, there seems a consensus that it is in the .11 range. Cool! There had to be one that got upgraded rather than the other way :) Oct 27, 2009
JasonT
  5.11c
JasonT  
  5.11c
Super classic climb. I would definitely say 11b/c. Super sustained and probably one of the best of its grade at Shelf, IMHO. If you do not like crimps, stay away. 4 stars for sure. Nov 8, 2009
Darryl, you were just climbing waaay good back then! Dec 15, 2012
lucas dietrich
  5.11c
lucas dietrich  
  5.11c
Another classic crimp line. Big thanks to D. Roth for all his great contributions to Shelf Road. 5.11c. Oct 29, 2015
Rebolted in 2015. Hardware courtesy of the ASCA. Consider a donation today @ safeclimbing.org. Jan 31, 2016
Philip DeFraties
Golden, CO
Philip DeFraties   Golden, CO
I thought I was hot shit coming off a redpoint send of Muscle Beach the day before, I was not ready for this. I have climbed a handful of 11cs and put some work in to a few 12a's, and this felt much harder than 11c to me, very hard. Mar 3, 2018