Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 942 total · 4/month
Shared By: montay on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

If you are tall and looking for an 11c onsight, this could be the route for you. It is a pleasant route with a brief crux that is pretty soft for the grade and a nice view of the canyon below make this overlooked route worth some clipping.

Crank up past the first bolt and get the crux over with nice and early. Do a very reachy move up and slightly right with some nice crimpy holds (sorry un-tall people, but I know that you will make up for it with impeccable technique). If you can scramble through this with a little bit of a high step, you might be on your way to glory. Your only obstacle will be a growing pump factor and reading the moves that you need to make to get to the top. A brief clue: don't be afraid to do a crossover or two into aesthetic laybacks. A couple rounded edges at the top to give you that giggly feeling, and you will be home free!

Location

To find the route, follow directions to the 2150 Wall (directions are given in other route descriptions, such as "Serious Power Outage"). From the left end of the wall, walk left about 100 feet to a small detached pillar. Above this pillar is "Primal Scream (5.9). Just around the corner to the left is Tribal Boundary.

Protection

6 bolts and anchors.

Photos

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Paul Lanz did the FFA back in 1988, don't worry about the height requirement because he's a short little f--ker. Jan 9, 2005
Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
 
Monica Jones   Bishop, CA
 
I am 5 ft. tall and could make the move. Fun, little climb if you're in the area. Mar 16, 2015
Tok Kay  
There is a route just right, easier, maybe 5.11a? 6 reddish bolts. Climbs up and rightwards to finish at anchors just left of Primal Scream. Feb 16, 2016