Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Massey Wall

Bachelor Party T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Frozen Will T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Full Nelson T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Lisenby-Zacher Especial T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lost Vikings T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mindless Indulgence T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Modulation Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Space Between, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Velvet Hammer, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Waking Life T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: First pitch: Unknown. Second pitch:Jesse Zacher
Page Views: 165 total, 5/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Feb 1, 2015
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The route is one of the best that I have put up in the canyon. The first pitch had been done prior to my arrival, but the second pitch had remained un-climbed. The first pitch is short and leads you to a ledge where the second pitch begins. This pitch is around 5.10. After a lot of cleaning, I added four bolts to the beginning 15-20 feet of pitch two where an acute corner with a thin seam starts the climb. The second pitch is broken up with several great rests, so just when things seem to get desperate, full recovery can be had. The majority of the climb follows a great crack of all sizes that leads its way to 3/4 the height of the wall. From here, a slight traverse right past the steepest section of the climb provides one last crux before some easier climbing to the top.

Location

The route is roughly a hundred feet left of Velvet Hammer. It is best recognized by the bright green lichen on a clean wall.

Protection

Nuts, double set from small to #2 Camalot. Three #0.4s were useful. Bring many runners as the pitch is quite long. There are bolted anchors from the rim as well as the old original anchors atop pitch 1. Bring two ropes to descend.

Photos

Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
 
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
 
Many thanks to a few of my friends who belayed me way too late into winter trying to get this thing done! Feb 1, 2015