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> Massey Wall
The Velvet Hammer
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.9 from 8
votes
Routes in Massey Wall
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Bachelor Party T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Frozen Will T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Full Nelson T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Lisenby-Zacher Especial T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lost Vikings T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mindless Indulgence T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Modulation Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Space Between, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Velvet Hammer, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Waking Life T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jesse Zacher |
| Page Views: | 969 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Jesse Zacher on Apr 18, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is a continuous crack system that goes the height of the left side of Quarry Wall. It climbs ledge to ledge.
Pitch 1: from the ledge, climb some nebulous terrain until the obvious crack cuts up towards a large triangle ledge. This is a good warm-up for what's to come. 5.10, 60 feet, bolted anchor.
Pitch 2: set sail up the corner with fingers and stemming up past a few steep sections. Gain a good ledge on the right below a short roof. Do some intricate stemming and an arm bar to reach a positive hold. More 5.10 climbing leads to a last rest 20 feet below the obvious undercling crux. Motor up to the undercling, reach high, and place/clip a small nut before making some tough moves to regain the corner. From here, it's 5.10 to the top! 180 feet, 5.11+, bolted anchor.
Pitch 1: from the ledge, climb some nebulous terrain until the obvious crack cuts up towards a large triangle ledge. This is a good warm-up for what's to come. 5.10, 60 feet, bolted anchor.
Pitch 2: set sail up the corner with fingers and stemming up past a few steep sections. Gain a good ledge on the right below a short roof. Do some intricate stemming and an arm bar to reach a positive hold. More 5.10 climbing leads to a last rest 20 feet below the obvious undercling crux. Motor up to the undercling, reach high, and place/clip a small nut before making some tough moves to regain the corner. From here, it's 5.10 to the top! 180 feet, 5.11+, bolted anchor.
Location
This route is best accessed by rapping in from the top. Head up Divide Road until you are the top of the cliff line. Pull-off at the first large open area. Look for a large cairn by the cliff. It may take some searching to find the bolts that are 3-4 feet below the top. It is a double rope rap to the top of the 1st pitch. It is a single rap to start the first.
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