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Routes in Massey Wall

Bachelor Party T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Frozen Will T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Full Nelson T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Lisenby-Zacher Especial T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lost Vikings T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mindless Indulgence T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Modulation Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Space Between, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Velvet Hammer, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Waking Life T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jesse Zacher
Page Views: 196 total, 3/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Apr 18, 2012
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a continuous crack system that goes the height of the left side of Quarry Wall. It climbs ledge to ledge.

Pitch 1: from the ledge, climb some nebulous terrain until the obvious crack cuts up towards a large triangle ledge. This is a good warm-up for what's to come. 5.10, 60 feet, bolted anchor.

Pitch 2: set sail up the corner with fingers and stemming up past a few steep sections. Gain a good ledge on the right below a short roof. Do some intricate stemming and an arm bar to reach a positive hold. More 5.10 climbing leads to a last rest 20 feet below the obvious undercling crux. Motor up to the undercling, reach high, and place/clip a small nut before making some tough moves to regain the corner. From here, it's 5.10 to the top! 180 feet, 5.11+, bolted anchor.

Location

This route is best accessed by rapping in from the top. Head up Divide Road until you are the top of the cliff line. Pull-off at the first large open area. Look for a large cairn by the cliff. It may take some searching to find the bolts that are 3-4 feet below the top. It is a double rope rap to the top of the 1st pitch. It is a single rap to start the first.

Protection

Double set from 0.3-0.75. Double #3s, single #1, #2, and a sub 0.3 piece. A full set of nuts! There are anchors at the top of the first and second pitch.

Photos

Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
 
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
 
If cleaned after spring thaw, it stays good until a large rain event or the winter. You should get on the Bachelor Party Beagle. Apr 26, 2013
Bryan Gilmore
New England
 
Bryan Gilmore   New England
 
You may want more than the listed gear if OS'ing. Great route, that is unfortunately a natural drainage for the area and seems like it'll be perpetually dirty. Apr 26, 2013
Very fun route! Great job, Jesse. Sorry I missed the send! May 1, 2012
Bryan K.
Palisade, CO
 
Bryan K.   Palisade, CO
 
Another classic Zacher 11+. Will get only better with some traffic. If you're climbing the grade, this is a must do. Best approach in the entire canyon! Apr 18, 2012