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Routes in Massey Wall

Bachelor Party T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Frozen Will T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Full Nelson T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Lisenby-Zacher Especial T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lost Vikings T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mindless Indulgence T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Modulation Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Space Between, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Velvet Hammer, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Waking Life T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: equipped by Jesse Zacher, FFA Chris Righter and Matt Lisenby
Page Views: 219 total, 16/month
Shared By: Matt Lisenby on Oct 16, 2016
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

P1: climb cracks to step across onto flakes/pillar. Face climb past two bolts then into hand cracks to the belay, 100', 5.11-.

P2: ascend on perfect stone, climb flakes, crimps, and laybacks with tenuous footholds past 1 fixed nut and 2 bolts, then finish with 80' of moderate hand cracks to the summit, 5.12+.

Location

This is on the leftmost (eastern) buttress on the Massey Wall complex. Start between Waking Life (5.11) and Zacher-Lisenby Especial (5.10+). From the top of the Divide Road switchbacks, locate a small pillar/summit. Get on top of this, and find the rappel bolts (skier's right of the two pair of bolts on top of the formation, the other set is for Waking Life).

Two 100'(30 meter) rappels will reach the base.

Protection

A single rack to a #3 Camalot, draws, and nuts. Unless you are 6' tall, expect to struggle clipping the bolts. Pre-hanging/extending draws on rappel is advised.

Photos

Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
Nails hard and great rock...look forward to givin' it some time this spring. Mar 10, 2017