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Routes in Massey Wall

Bachelor Party T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Frozen Will T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Full Nelson T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Lisenby-Zacher Especial T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lost Vikings T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mindless Indulgence T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Modulation Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Space Between, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Velvet Hammer, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Waking Life T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jesse Zacher
Page Views: 354 total, 10/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Feb 17, 2015
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Waking Life is another favorite of mine on the wall. It has steep, technical crack climbing.

The first pitch is the crux. Begin clipping a bolt a bit off the deck and moving into a shallow corner. Move up and work your way up the steep, thin crack as you come to a large bulge. Work your way through, and crank through some tough jams to a rest. Traverse right and up to a belay.

The second pitch is fun, moderate climbing up a wandering crack that is mostly hands. Gain the steep headstone face at the top where you clip a bolt and make a few delicate exit moves to the top.

Location

This is the far right obvious prow that sticks away from the wall. There is bright colored lichen that glows. This route starts on the far right of the prow up the obvious, thin cracks and out onto the prow's face at the top.

Protection

Doubles from small to #1, one #2 and #3, QDs, and nuts. There are anchors at the top and atop pitch one.

Do a single rope rap to the top of pitch one, or double rope to the bottom with 70s.

Photos

The bolted variation left of Waking Life is P2 of Full Nelson (5.12+). Oct 16, 2016
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
 
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
 
The second pitch bolted variation is amazing...bullet rock.
What is this? 5.12? Jun 6, 2016