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Routes in No Thoroughfare Canyon

Acrylic Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
Bobble Head Tower T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Butt Crack Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ceramic Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C0-1
Chocolate Corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cinco De Mayo T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crunch Time Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Layback T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mosaic Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Mosaic Tower - Don't Let the Bastards Grind You Down T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nubbins to Nothing TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Over the Edge Spire-Child's Play T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Red Iguana T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown-aka the Hershey Kiss T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 174 total · 5/month
Shared By: Paul S on Jan 22, 2015
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Bobble Head Tower has an OK route with some fun sections and some dirty sections. The route starts several dihedrals to the climber's left of the tower. Look for the cleanest dihedral to the left of the tower that gets you to a big ledge covered in junipers, and that's probably the one we took.

P1 starts off with a little squeeze and then has some nice hands and fist climbing.

P2 starts behind the tower up the obvious OW. The crux is pretty junky rock, but it quickly gets better and is pretty feature to the top.

Protection

Hands and up. For P2 you'll want some of the bigger cams. A full 60 m rap gets you to the ground.

Location

Bobble Head Tower is across from Butt Crack Tower. It's kind of hard to pick out, but it's a top heavy tower with a crack right down its middle, splitting it in two.

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