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Routes in No Thoroughfare Canyon

Acrylic Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
Bobble Head Tower T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Butt Crack Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ceramic Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C0-1
Chocolate Corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cinco De Mayo T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crunch Time Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Layback T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mosaic Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Mosaic Tower - Don't Let the Bastards Grind You Down T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nubbins to Nothing TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Over the Edge Spire-Child's Play T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Red Iguana T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown-aka the Hershey Kiss T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: KC Baum, B. Hustava
Page Views: 855 total, 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 12, 2002
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This area, Lost Arrow Buttress, is tough to find from above (preferred). This may require fixed ropes/ascenders to exit. It's a long way to approach from below 4mi+. This is in upper No Thoroughfare Canyon. From the East entrance to the monument, go up the Rim ROck Drive, turn E on DS/East Glade Park Rd, park beyond the monument boundary sign in a large pullout. Cross the road, hop the fence, walk south 300y+ to a bowl/drainage. There was a cairn here. The upper part of this seems easy 4th class. We rappeled. The next rap is off a large ledge from a tree down a tighter slot. Leave this rope in place, pad the friction spots for the rope (or get a lot of wear on your rope). From here, walk to find a good tree and rap down a corner to the ground. It's easier to leave this rope in place, too.

This climb is downhill from the rap line perhaps 400 yards. It ascends a left-facing corner of a pillar. There are varied sizes, varnished crack wtih fingers, hands, offwidth, lieback moves to delight you. It is easier than it looks. There is a 2 bolt anchor. Rap 70'.

Protection

Cams to #4 Friend, including 3 #3 Friends, 2 #2 Friends, 2 #1 Camalots.

Photos

Steve Kahn  
 
Steep with a wide crux for the final moves. Apr 25, 2008