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Routes in No Thoroughfare Canyon

Acrylic Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
Bobble Head Tower T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Butt Crack Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ceramic Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C0-1
Chocolate Corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cinco De Mayo T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crunch Time Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Layback T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mosaic Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Mosaic Tower - Don't Let the Bastards Grind You Down T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nubbins to Nothing TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Over the Edge Spire-Child's Play T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Red Iguana T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown-aka the Hershey Kiss T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mickey Guziak, Blake Stevens - Oct 29th 2016
Page Views: 490 total, 38/month
Shared By: Mickey Guziak on Oct 30, 2016
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route climbs the steep side of Mosaic Tower. We thought it was a great route with almost all good rock except for one short section, which detracted it from being a 4 star route.

P1. Start up the chimney system with good gear until reaching a long, awesome, lower angle 5s and 6s crack. The crux is just before reaching an alcove. Belay off of either a #6 or #3s avoiding the guano, 5.9+.

P2. Squeeze up the semi-overhanging, semi-horizontal "chimney", passing one section of junk rock (the leader pulled on cams through this section) through a bulge and another grovelly squeeze up to the big ledge. You can belay off of some shrubs, or link P3 if rope drag isn't too bad, 5.10+ or 5.9 C1.

P3. Finish on the original route, stepping left and climbing easy slab to the anchor. The summit is just a short scramble away from here.

Location

This is on the South side of Mosaic Tower. Approach from upper No Thoroughfare Canyon. Follow the obvious chimney system on the left side. One 70m rap gets you to the notch, then one more rap back to the gully and some easy scrambling gets you to the base.

Protection

Doubles from #0.75-#6, triples of #3, runners, webbing for the anchor, and 1 70m rope.

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