Type: Trad, TR
FA: KC Baum, B Hustava
Page Views: 1,275 total · 5/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 12, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Jesse Zacher, Monomaniac, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Tyler KC, Jared LaVacque

You & This Route


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Description

This is a challenging area to find from above (preferred). It is a long hike in from below 4+ miles. From the E entrance to the monument, go up Rim Rock Drive, go left on DS/East Glade Park Rd past the monument boundary. Park in a large pullout. Cross the road, hop the fence, head south 300+y. You may find a cairn. Find a drainage down with a large bowl at the top. You can rap this or downclimb, carefully 4th class to a tree above a tighter slot. Rap down here, pad the rope (or find significant rope wear later), reach a ledge. Find another tighter corner and rap to the ground. I recommend leaving the last 2 ropes fixed. Bring ascenders.

Move downhill perhaps 400y. Find a large flake-like pinnacle with a chocolate colored, left-facing dihedral. Climb the less distinctive right-facing dihedral. Awkward, weird moves with spots of loose rock present themselves. Not sustained in difficulty. 2 bolt anchor is shared with Chocolate Corner. Rap 70'

Protection

Cams to 2 #4 Friends.

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