Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 140 ft (42 m)|
|FA:||Jon Burnham, Bill Duncan, Brent Higgins, March 1996|
|Page Views:||920 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Paul S on Mar 6, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Jesse Zacher, Monomaniac, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Tyler KC, Jared LaVacque|
The climb starts in the hallway between the tower and the buttress up a fist crack. Chimney/jam up and obviously move into the main chimney system. This is where the climb gets exciting, run it out by stemming/chimneying up past some scary rock with no gear for a ways. Towards the top of the chimney I saw two drilled holes to hand place a baby angle in. (Desert Rock III mentions more holes for angles, I didn't see anymore besides an empty bolt hole. At the end of the chimney, there is a fixed piton. Now for the intimidating part (and beta, so stop reading if you want more of an adventure).
The last 15-20' requires face climbing one junk rock with a bad fall potential. I took forever on this section, the line looks obvious, two big huecos to a scary, sloping mantle to a scramble to the summit. I tried everything, even aiding up, but that didn't work at all. Going straight up would be very hard and dangerous, instead traverse left on decaying rock. This is much, much easier, a little more runout and definitely worse rock, but fairly easy.
Rap with two ropes off of 3 fixed pitons.
This climb is pretty fun and unique in a beautiful setting, but runouts, some horrid rock, and runouts on horrid rock keep this one from being a 4 star route.