Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: DaveJ, Alexander Nees, Jessi Lipschitz, Nov. 2018
Page Views: 411 total · 12/month
Shared By: DaveJ on Nov 24, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Jesse Zacher, Monomaniac, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Tyler KC, Jared LaVacque

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This is a pleasant adventure route tucked up along the No Thoroughfare Canyon base. It climbs a crack which was created in a recent (10-20? years ago) rockfall, which cleaved a huge flake away from the wall. Liberal Fantasy climbs the right side, while the left side can be scrambled up to a shorter, wide crack. The crack edge is laser cut and offers the best layback I have ever experienced! The crack widens from 0.5" at the bottom to 5" at the top (no offwidth required), and a few key footholds can be found on the face. Jam or layback until you can grab the ledge and mantel up.


Park at Devil's Kitchen, and hike 15-20 minutes up No Thoroughfare Canyon. Climb up the left side through dirt/talus to the base of the cliff. Liberal Fantasy climbs the obvious crack in the corner of the attached photo.


1x #1-#5 BD Camalots. There are no fixed anchors - downaid/climb to descend.