Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: DaveJ, Alexander Nees, Jessi Lipschitz, Nov. 2018
Page Views: 650 total · 10/month
Shared By: DaveJ on Nov 24, 2018
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

This is a pleasant adventure route tucked up along the No Thoroughfare Canyon base. It climbs a crack which was created in a recent (10-20? years ago) rockfall, which cleaved a huge flake away from the wall. Liberal Fantasy climbs the right side, while the left side can be scrambled up to a shorter, wide crack. The crack edge is laser cut and offers the best layback I have ever experienced! The crack widens from 0.5" at the bottom to 5" at the top (no offwidth required), and a few key footholds can be found on the face. Jam or layback until you can grab the ledge and mantel up.

Location Suggest change

Park at Devil's Kitchen, and hike 15-20 minutes up No Thoroughfare Canyon. Climb up the left side through dirt/talus to the base of the cliff. Liberal Fantasy climbs the obvious crack in the corner of the attached photo.

Protection Suggest change

1x #1-#5 BD Camalots. There are no fixed anchors - downaid/climb to descend.

Photos

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