| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 39.9864, -105.2953 |
| FA: | R. Rossiter, solo, 1988 |
| Page Views: | 996 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 18, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
This is an interesting name for this route, as a variation of Crescent, given that it does not share a single foot of territory with that route until high on the summit ridge where you would rap.
This route is much more runout than Crescent, as it lacks the P1 and P2 cracks entirely. Othewise, it is a good and aesthetic route. A lack of travel, however, means that it is slightly less cleaned, and some caution would be advised in pursuit of the route. Remember this "If you fall, you are going to have a very bad day." It seems unlikely a solid Flatiron slab climber should encounter any trouble, so the route is not ill-advised; it is simply recommended with caution.
P1 (5.6, 210'): start from the ground, and aim more or less for the lower section of the arcing, thin flake mentioned in the location description. Once this is reached, about 100' up, start placing gear when available in it, using 2' slings as needed to avoid drag. The flake will curve strongly to the right and over. When it ends, move up to a nice horizontal, a nice ledge shared with the belay as for the route 'Crescent' to the left. If you traverse back 20' left, you get into a vertical crack that takes a perfect old #4 and new #4 (1 each) Camalot for a belay. Bring your parnter up this 210' pitch!
P2 (5.6, 150'-ish?): traverse back right from the belay back to just above the right hand end of the curving flake. Staying to the right of P2 of Crescent, but left of a yawning chimney and OW system to the North, wander your way up gritty slopers and cobbles as securely as you can past a few horizontal cracks and get protection when possible, as opportunities are slim. When you eventually reach the summit ridge, a few more pieces are offered, and you run up and right (North) as far as possible, considering drag and rope length, to set a second belay.
You can search for the anchor above Pine Tree Pitch and rap. You can downclimb the Green Crack Chimney, or you can improvise a simul-rap from one of many places. I've done all of the above and am not sure I'd find the same solution each time. If you are qualified to climb this thing without crapping your pants, you are qualified to find your way off of it as well. Don't sweat that too much.
If, however, you can find Pine Tree Pitch and its obscured anchor, I recommend going down there so as to set yourself up to do that pitch next. Nothing ends a day of slab mongering better than a stout, overhanging jamcrack.



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