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Routes in West Ironing Board

Cave Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crescent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Crescent Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Dolmen, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Green Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
I Lichen Chimneys T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
I Lichen Offwidths T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Marine Life T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pine Tree Pitch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seams Like a Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Smoother T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: R. Rossiter, solo, 1988
Page Views: 240 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 18, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is an interesting name for this route, as a variation of Crescent, given that it does not share a single foot of territory with that route until high on the summit ridge where you would rap.

This route is much more runout than Crescent, as it lacks the P1 and P2 cracks entirely. Othewise, it is a good and aesthetic route. A lack of travel, however, means that it is slightly less cleaned, and some caution would be advised in pursuit of the route. Remember this "If you fall, you are going to have a very bad day." It seems unlikely a solid Flatiron slab climber should encounter any trouble, so the route is not ill-advised; it is simply recommended with caution.

P1 (5.6, 210'): start from the ground, and aim more or less for the lower section of the arcing, thin flake mentioned in the location description. Once this is reached, about 100' up, start placing gear when available in it, using 2' slings as needed to avoid drag. The flake will curve strongly to the right and over. When it ends, move up to a nice horizontal, a nice ledge shared with the belay as for the route 'Crescent' to the left. If you traverse back 20' left, you get into a vertical crack that takes a perfect old #4 and new #4 (1 each) Camalot for a belay. Bring your parnter up this 210' pitch!

P2 (5.6, 150'-ish?): traverse back right from the belay back to just above the right hand end of the curving flake. Staying to the right of P2 of Crescent, but left of a yawning chimney and OW system to the North, wander your way up gritty slopers and cobbles as securely as you can past a few horizontal cracks and get protection when possible, as opportunities are slim. When you eventually reach the summit ridge, a few more pieces are offered, and you run up and right (North) as far as possible, considering drag and rope length, to set a second belay.

You can search for the anchor above Pine Tree Pitch and rap. You can downclimb the Green Crack Chimney, or you can improvise a simul-rap from one of many places. I've done all of the above and am not sure I'd find the same solution each time. If you are qualified to climb this thing without crapping your pants, you are qualified to find your way off of it as well. Don't sweat that too much.

If, however, you can find Pine Tree Pitch and its obscured anchor, I recommend going down there so as to set yourself up to do that pitch next. Nothing ends a day of slab mongering better than a stout, overhanging jamcrack.

Location

Start uphill (North) of Crescent about 20 meters. There is a short OW at the ground that runs up and to the right. Start just left of this, and aim directly upward to the left end of a small flake/overlap that creates a lower arc below the gaping OW of the namesake original route, Crescent.

Protection

This route sports some large runouts. I believe I was ~100' up at my first piece. I placed gear from small cams and medium nuts plus a new and old (1 each) #4 Camalot in the single belay opportunity.

A 70m rope will make reaching this belay comfortable with no simul-climbing required.

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