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Routes in West Ironing Board

Cave Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crescent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Crescent Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Dolmen, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Green Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
I Lichen Chimneys T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
I Lichen Offwidths T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Marine Life T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pine Tree Pitch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seams Like a Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Smoother T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
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Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: George Bracksieck and Jim Desrosiers
Page Views: 57 total · 7/month
Shared By: George Bracksieck on Nov 21, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details

Description

Yesterday, I started up the seam, not optimistic about finding pro. With cleaning, I found placements for small Tricams (two pinks, a red, a blue), a #3 C4, a yellow C3, and doubles of #0.4 and 0.5. When the seam ended, I placed a red C3 and a yellow Alien in a horizontal. Above, the wall steepened and was unprotected for 40 feet. Eventually reaching a good horizontal, I cammed a pink Tricam (wishing I had another 0.4 Camalot) and traversed left to the top of the chimney. For the belay, I placed a bombproof #0.75 about 10 feet west.

We left a sling and rapped down the southern of the two short, overhanging chimneys directly to the west. From the ground, it looked downclimbable. Once on the ground, we made the mistake of descending west and south, eventually down the flood-ravaged gulch. Going north and up, around the north end of the Ironing Boards would be better.

Location

This is the thin seam/crack that lies between I Lichen Chimneys and I Lichen Offwidths. It is obvious in the pic posted under each of those routes.

Protection

Tricams (three pinks, a red, a blue), a #3 C4, a yellow C3, triples of #0.4, doubles of #0.5, a red C3, a yellow Alien, and a #0.75.

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