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Routes in West Ironing Board

Cave Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crescent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Crescent Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Dolmen, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Green Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
I Lichen Chimneys T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
I Lichen Offwidths T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Marine Life T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pine Tree Pitch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seams Like a Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Smoother T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Type: Trad
FA: Mark Roth and Jay Eggleston (maybe?)
Page Views: 83 total, 1/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Nov 20, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Very much like its namesake, The Cave Exit at Lumpy Ridge, this exit from the wall may have you scratching your head for a minute and also feel like a sandbag. I found myself spinning around in full body stems trying to figure out how to gain the crack.... This steep little crack is a perfect finish after an ascent of Smoother or Crescent. Just as safe to solo as to lead, since the crux comes right away and you would be looking at the same ledge fall either way. Once you figure out how to get started, you are almost done. After the perplexing opening moves, there is plenty of good gear and the difficulty eases quickly. I would assume that this has been climbed before, since it looked fun and was the most obvious way to go....

Location

The start is on the south side of the summit tower of the West Ironing Board. On a blocky ledge, up and North from the end of Crescent and Green Crack West (Green Chimney), there is an obvious crack in the back of a cave-like feature.

Protection

SR, scramble off to the NW. Maybe bring a cell phone if soloing. If you fall in that hole and break your legs, no one will ever find you....

Photos

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