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Routes in West Ironing Board

Cave Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crescent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Crescent Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Dolmen, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Green Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
I Lichen Chimneys T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
I Lichen Offwidths T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Marine Life T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pine Tree Pitch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seams Like a Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Smoother T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: R. Rossiter, 1988
Page Views: 65 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 20, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

The Dolmen is a good route with less signs of travel than the other similar, more classic routes of the area, those being Sooth and Smoother. I got 1 cam in behind a flake about 60' up, and that was it for gear, but the rock was solid and predictable, and it was a comfortable "lead" for an otherwise experienced climber. Much like Smooth, it may well be over-graded for difficulty (maybe 5.5-5.6 rather than the given grade of 5.7. At the very least, it is not sustained at the 5.7 grade.

Location

This climb ascends the South Margin of the East Face of the lowest section of the West Ironing Board for ~140'. From there, you can step over and continue on Smoother (simul-climb to belay #1) or rap as described under 'protection.'

Protection

I placed a singles 1" cam about 20 meters up behind a small flake, and that was it for lead pro.

A very nice horizontal on top takes 1.5-3" cams.

To rap, throw 50' of rope down the back and the rest down the front and simul-rap.

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