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Routes in West Ironing Board
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Cave Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crescent T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Crescent Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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Dolmen, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Green Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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I Lichen Chimneys T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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I Lichen Offwidths T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R |
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Marine Life T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pine Tree Pitch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Seams Like a Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Smoother T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
| Type: | Trad |
| GPS: | 39.9864, -105.2953 |
| FA: | Jim Erickson and Jim Walsh, 1970 |
| Page Views: | 4,418 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | George Bell on Nov 12, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Raptor nesting lifted July 26, 2023
Details
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
This is a very serious route and it is dangerous of Rossiter to give it a mere "S" rating. There is a 300' section of rock with no decent pro at all (there is one ancient, worthless-looking bolt, see photo). This climb begins a few feet left of the Crescent Crack, and heads straight up the face between the SE ridge crest and Crescent Crack. The rock is smoother than average Flatiron rock, but it is solid and the position near the ridge crest is magnificent. This would be a popular route if it had any pro (too bad it is not a little bit steeper or Erickson might have put some more bolts on it!).
The first 30' of the face are the crux. After that, you can place a good cam in a downward crack. Cross your fingers now, this [used to be] the last decent pro for the next 300', at least it is only 5.6 from here on up. At 120', you will run into the [formerly] ancient bolt, this bolt is 10-20' above the summit of the tower to your left (Rossiter calls it The Dolomen) [this bolt was replaced by a bomber 2 bolt anchor in 2007]. From here, head up the face 200' to a belay on the left end of a crack/ledge (the 320' anchor). After this, the climbing becomes easier and you can actually find pro, too (move right and finish as with Crescent, or head left behind a big flake to the easy upper ridge).
There are at least 4 ways to climb this route:
(1) free solo (elegant and simplistic, but potentially fatal),
(2) simulclimb the first 2 pitches, then belay everyone up conga-line style (more dangerous than free soloing for a party of 2, but this technique has been used by larger parties and is safe once the first climber reaches the 320' anchor).
(3) Climb Crescent (large cams recommended) and toprope each pitch individually from that route.
(4) Climb Crescent to the 320' anchor and set up a "toprope". To find this anchor, climb 2 pitches up Crescent and find the first ledge/crack which extends left to the ridge crest. Where this crack hits the ridge is the 320' anchor. Set gear (medium-size cams) and do a single rope rap down 200' to the worthless bolt, then rap down another 120' on another rope (back bolt up to first rope!). You now essentially have set up a toprope on the crux section.
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