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Routes in Pianokrakken

Lys Og Skygge. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Applecake Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Grand Theft Otto T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Pianohandler Lunds Rute T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tapir T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: O. Wiik, A. Bergwall, 8/'91
Page Views: 142 total, 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 29, 2014
Admins: Michael Sullivan

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Description

A very good climb (rated top-50 by the guidebook author) despite it's short length. 3 brief cruxes contend for the title of hardest move, depending on reach, flexibility, and strength. All 3 of them are good, regardless.
Start off on relatively moderate crack climbing, protecting on god gear. Hit the first crux (strength) moving up and left between two sections of crack in the arc. Transition to a rest and then move up and left to a flat section of wall and place gear. Awkward balance and reach from smaller holds passes the techy second crux to clip a bolt now up and right over the bulge. Work out what to use, and not to use, then pull the final moves (3rd crux if you are short or have short arms) up and right onto the slab and up to a rap anchor.
Great climbing on great rock.

Location

This route is on the upper West side of the crag, and follows a flake and shallow left-facing corner to arc up and left into a crack to a bulge, and then a slab. A single bolt above the bulge 60' over the base confirms the identity and location of this line.

Protection

Gear to 3" plus a bolt at the top moves. Take a few long slings due to the curve of the crack. Lower off from a bolted anchor.

Photos

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Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
One of the better single pitches we've done so far. Mia, at 5'6", really struggled with the last crux but eked out a send. Myself, at a towering 5'9", found nothing challenging about the last crux. May 19, 2017