Pianohandler Lunds Rute
Avg: 2.3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 340 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||A. Meyer, K. Skog, U. Prytz, 1971|
|Page Views:||540 total, 13/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Jul 29, 2014|
DescriptionThis route is high quality, but broken into short pitches and likely only included in the "50 classics" of Lofoten list due to it's ease and short approach.
It is a great warm-up or fun rest-day romp if you can beat the hordes of kids and guides to it by getting up at 9am... which is considered "Early" by Lofoten standards.
P1) 5.5, 90': Climb up and left on a slab below a left-leaning bulge for perhaps 13 meters to the end of the corner, then turn back slightly right and head up and strongly right to a ledge at the right hand side of a second large slab. Belay here at the top of P1, or continue on P2.
P2) 5.5, 65': Climb up the right side of the next rock, curving sharply right at the top to a ledge and belay, or once again, continue. It is possible to combine P1-3 into a single pitch on a 70M rope with good gear and rope management.
P3) 5.6, 70': Traverse out and right across low angle rock to a crack that leans slightly back left. Climb this (crux) up through to the top of that section of rock and belay on a ledge there, perhaps for the first time on the route.
P4) 5.6, 35': Jam up an awkward crack above the belay and continue through what would have been P5, were you to seriously want to break this climb into 10 meter pitches as advised by the book.
P5) 5.5, 55': finish the route on a set of cracks directly above, or out to the right at a similar grade and set a trad belay.
LocationThis route starts just up and left of the obvious telegraph poles on the South end of the crag, and wanders up well-worn rock to the summit on 3-5 pitches of rock.
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