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Routes in Pianokrakken

Lys Og Skygge. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Applecake Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Grand Theft Otto T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Pianohandler Lunds Rute T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tapir T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 340 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: A. Meyer, K. Skog, U. Prytz, 1971
Page Views: 540 total, 13/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 29, 2014
Admins: Michael Sullivan

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Description

This route is high quality, but broken into short pitches and likely only included in the "50 classics" of Lofoten list due to it's ease and short approach.
It is a great warm-up or fun rest-day romp if you can beat the hordes of kids and guides to it by getting up at 9am... which is considered "Early" by Lofoten standards.
P1) 5.5, 90': Climb up and left on a slab below a left-leaning bulge for perhaps 13 meters to the end of the corner, then turn back slightly right and head up and strongly right to a ledge at the right hand side of a second large slab. Belay here at the top of P1, or continue on P2.
P2) 5.5, 65': Climb up the right side of the next rock, curving sharply right at the top to a ledge and belay, or once again, continue. It is possible to combine P1-3 into a single pitch on a 70M rope with good gear and rope management.
P3) 5.6, 70': Traverse out and right across low angle rock to a crack that leans slightly back left. Climb this (crux) up through to the top of that section of rock and belay on a ledge there, perhaps for the first time on the route.
P4) 5.6, 35': Jam up an awkward crack above the belay and continue through what would have been P5, were you to seriously want to break this climb into 10 meter pitches as advised by the book.
P5) 5.5, 55': finish the route on a set of cracks directly above, or out to the right at a similar grade and set a trad belay.

Location

This route starts just up and left of the obvious telegraph poles on the South end of the crag, and wanders up well-worn rock to the summit on 3-5 pitches of rock.

Protection

A rack from small to 3" with plenty of slings to combine pitches on this wandering line.
Retreat from this route via a hike to the West and descend via a terrible crumbling trail, perhaps with a single 70' rap included to skip the worst of that.

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