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Chasm View Cutoff
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Chasm View Wall
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Babies R' Us T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Chasm View Cutoff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Directissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Invisible Wall T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Red Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sharp on Both Ends T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Bill Eubank, Tom Hornbein, and Brad Van Diver, 1950 |
| Page Views: | 3,058 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Oveson on Jun 29, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
This is a fun, moderate adventure route that lets you experience the exposure of Chasm View Wall without the more difficult climbing that is otherwise typical of the area. The route follows the black rock band and ledge that traverses across the upper wall.
Chasm View Cutoff consists mostly of 4th- and lower 5th-class climbing. Other than the final pitch, only a few moves are 5.4 or harder. On the final pitch, a few moves are 5.7 and most of the rest of the pitch is easier. If you are looking for hundreds of feet of sustained climbing, this is not your route. If you are looking for wildness, solitude, history, alpine views, and big-time exposure, look no further.
From the far right side of the Broadway ledge, scramble up and right following the easiest line to a comfortable belay underneath a stair-step formation. There was a sizable snowfield here in late June 2014. Bypass the snowfield on the right following the ledge to an airy step-around move and belay.
Downclimb 15 feet, traverse an easy section, then climb a couple of harder moves into a black, undercut area. Continue right around another corner and belay. Another 100-foot traversing pitch brings you to the base of a prominent dihedral and wide fist crack. This is the same as the belay for P7 as described under Red Wall on this site. From here, you can see out to where your ledge abruptly disappears into the face a hundred feet to the right. That is definitely not your exit.
Just to the right of the crack system, climb the face up and right past an ancient piton or two and out to the arete. Step around the arete using a large and improbable hold (crux) to a ledge system on the other side. Follow that ledge system along a vertical wall to the ridge. This pitch is the same as the "5.6ish" variation of P7 described under Red Wall on this site.
Descend to the Boulderfield or continue to to the summit via the North Face.
Chasm View Cutoff consists mostly of 4th- and lower 5th-class climbing. Other than the final pitch, only a few moves are 5.4 or harder. On the final pitch, a few moves are 5.7 and most of the rest of the pitch is easier. If you are looking for hundreds of feet of sustained climbing, this is not your route. If you are looking for wildness, solitude, history, alpine views, and big-time exposure, look no further.
From the far right side of the Broadway ledge, scramble up and right following the easiest line to a comfortable belay underneath a stair-step formation. There was a sizable snowfield here in late June 2014. Bypass the snowfield on the right following the ledge to an airy step-around move and belay.
Downclimb 15 feet, traverse an easy section, then climb a couple of harder moves into a black, undercut area. Continue right around another corner and belay. Another 100-foot traversing pitch brings you to the base of a prominent dihedral and wide fist crack. This is the same as the belay for P7 as described under Red Wall on this site. From here, you can see out to where your ledge abruptly disappears into the face a hundred feet to the right. That is definitely not your exit.
Just to the right of the crack system, climb the face up and right past an ancient piton or two and out to the arete. Step around the arete using a large and improbable hold (crux) to a ledge system on the other side. Follow that ledge system along a vertical wall to the ridge. This pitch is the same as the "5.6ish" variation of P7 described under Red Wall on this site.
Descend to the Boulderfield or continue to to the summit via the North Face.
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