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Routes in Chapel Pond Slab

Bob's Knob Standard T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Empress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Greensleeves T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Thanksgiving T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Alpine Club of Canada
Page Views: 1,084 total, 26/month
Shared By: adkeditor Brown on Jun 20, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

The route begins at the end of the fourth pitch of Empress. Instead of going up the off-width on Empress, traverse right for 15 feet to gain a crack. Ascend the crack for 135 feet or so and belay at a bulge where the route steepens. For the second pitch continue over the bulge, step down to another crack and follow it to a tree island. For the third pitch, ascend 4th-class slab to the top or traverse right to the woods and the top of Bob's Knob for the North Descent Route.

Protection

The crack takes lots of midsize to large cams and nuts. There also are places where smaller cams work.

Photos

Jay Stanley
  5.6
Jay Stanley  
  5.6
Not sure why this route is PG13. Very G rated. The traverse can be a bit spicy, depending on if you choose to go high or low. Low looked better than high, but I ended up going high.

Anyway, avoid linking P1/2 up. If you try to link it up on a 70m you will end up at a hanging belay on a large chossy flake, a few meters below a promising horizontal and then the tree island about 10m above. What a bummer.

Stellar climb though.

Right now on P2 there are a few helmet sized blocks at the giant flake. Beware. Aug 28, 2017
When finishing the route ... do not go all the way to the top where the slab meets forest ... traverse right, 75 below the forest to connect with finish plateau of the "Regular Route". If you continue upwards to the top forest there is a crude trail which leads back down to the open area at the end of "Regular Route" Oct 6, 2016
Medic741
Red Hook, New York
 
Medic741   Red Hook, New York
 
Really like Greensleeves for hot days. In the afternoon the wall on the left side of crack keeps the belay in the shade. Picking belay spots up Empress keeps every belay in the shade except for the one pitch going up from the pancake flake.

Once you hit Greensleeves it's very G and is a very safe route for new leaders. If they're uncomfortable on (5.2?) runout slab have new climber build a belay at the end of the crack. A 70m rope will take you from the large cedar ledge to the top of the Greensleeves crack in a full 70m pitch. Makes it easy for second to run up 70m of Greensleeves and then keep running up the runout slab to the top!

Traverse can be very adequately protected with a .75 for those who are unsure about gear beta.

When linking this with empress use a single rack to #3 and a set of nuts, the #3 is not necessary if you're confident on this grade. Most anchors can be safely built with nuts.

IMO this is a much more interesting route w/ Empress than Regular, much less 'walking' up the slab Aug 6, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.6 PG13
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.6 PG13
Rather than going all the way up to "where the crack steepens", I usually belay lower down where it is a bit more comfortable. This is especially good with a 70m rope, as you can then make the trees at the top left. May 12, 2015
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
It's really easy to miss the pitch 1 belay as it's fairly nondescript looking. The fact that this is a good description of the belay should be testament to that fact. Jun 24, 2014