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Routes in Chapel Pond Slab

Bob's Knob Standard T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Empress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Greensleeves T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Thanksgiving T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 840 ft, 6 pitches
FA: John Case, Bob Notman, 1933
Page Views: 4,211 total, 47/month
Shared By: derek nabozny on Jul 12, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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The original route on chapel pond slab



P1 same as regular route
note all Variants of the start of regular route can be used for Bobs Knob
P2 up and right onto stepped rock then break left, left of a good crack to a ledge or continue up over a slight bulge to a ledge that will bypass some of the vegetation on the route.5.2G
(P1 and P2 can be linked together with some easy simulclimbing)
P3 up and right to clean rock above trees to a depression. move left to a hand crack onto fricton moves into the forest. 5.1G
P4 3rd class from the forest unrope and traverse right just above the forest across a bare rock area that will lead to a prow above a small slab.
P5 move right onto prow to mantle onto a ledge traverse right to a chimney with two pitons on its base then climb into chimney (often wet) to a fixed anchor on to move past into woods to a crack 15 feet to a terrace. 5.3G
P6 Up a slab to a ledge where it meets with Regular Route climb large S shaped crack to another ledge climb up short wall with handcrack to a left leaning crack in bulge climb the crack to untill you are on easy friction moves to the top 5.2G

To descend use the North Decent gully or there are several trees with gear mostly new stuff to rap from down into gully

  • * this is the recommended route via the Haas and Lawyer guide book however there are many options to belay on this climb and there are a lot of places where you can bypass vegetation or wet areas by moving onto some harder holds or less protected friction
When starting from the P5 "mantle move" ... aim up and to the right on good dry rock, you'll find a piton for pro, route is easy to discern once you get started. The 5.7 Eagle Crack starts to the right, but will probably be wet and often filled with moss. When doing the final pitch, you can drift right from the "Regular Route" for a 5.2 alternate finish. May 28, 2017
Expect the 50 ft "chimney" on P5, after the "mantle move" (starting up the "knob"} to be wet for days after rainfall, and it to have slippery muddy guck in it ... it is still climbable though. May 28, 2017
adkeditor Brown
Saranac Lake, NY
 
adkeditor Brown   Saranac Lake, NY
 
Soloed this many times. I usually follow the first two pitches of Regular Route and part of the third. This avoids all the trees until you get to the horizontal chimney on P4. May 25, 2014
derek nabozny
Norwalk, CT
 
derek nabozny   Norwalk, CT
 
Climbed at night with Eric Albers it was a extremely wet and had to break off onto harder terrain a few times but was a great way to get familiar with the rock and kill time until the rest of the climbing mafia arrived Jul 12, 2010