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Routes in Chapel Pond Slab

Bob's Knob Standard T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Empress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Greensleeves T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Thanksgiving T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
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Type: Trad, 550 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Alpine Club Canada
Page Views: 2,151 total · 22/month
Shared By: Devin McPhillips on Jul 22, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

A moderate slab route that ascends between Empress and the Regular Route. Offers clean, continuous smearing on steeper slabs. Slightly better protection than Empress with more sustained smearing than Regular. Guide books say 5.7 but the smearing seems easy for that grade.

Location

Climb the first two pitches of Empress (start at left-facing corner), then continue straight up for a few pitches, just right of a textured, mossy face to a thick flake forming a right-facing OW. Continue up past the OW. Exit at the top of Bob's Knob. Descend the gully to the right of Bob's Knob (a few rappels are convenient.).

Protection

A light rack of mostly small gear. The pink tricam and the red C3 camalot are useful. #9 hex is convenient for the OW flake.

Photos

adkeditor Brown
Saranac Lake, NY
 
adkeditor Brown   Saranac Lake, NY
 
If you follow the standard Empress route, zigzagging across the slab, Thanksgiving begins near the end of the third pitch. If you go straight up the slab, not zigzagging, it's two pitches to the start of Thanksgiving. In either case, you begin at the top of the rightmost of three rock hummocks. Head up a left-facing corner. You can get in a small cam. Near the top of the corner, grab huecos to step right onto slab. You can get in one more piece of gear, a small cam. The rest of the pitch is runout, ending at the Twin Cracks Belay on Regular Route.

The second pitch is even more runout. You can get in a piece near the belay, but that's it until you reach the large right-facing corner, where you can set up a belay with big cams.

The third pitch is more protected. Follow the corner to its end, then continue up with a combination of smearing and footholds, some small, some large.

Book says it ends with a fourth pitch, going under and around a roof and up a crack on Bob's Knob. I have yet to do that pitch. Instead I've always followed the slab to the woods.

Anyone climbing Thanksgiving should be aware that the first and second pitches are very runout. Nov 11, 2014
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.7 X
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.7 X
I can't believe that anyone would rate Empress an "X" and Thanksgiving and only an "R". The fall from the crux slab moves are equivalent (does anybody even THINK that, on Thanksgiving, the tiny cam under the tin flake will hold a fall from 30-35 ft above?!) Whether "R" or "X" they should be the same! May 12, 2015

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