Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 40 total · 5/month
Shared By: Nick Budka on Jun 21, 2024
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

climb the first couple pitches of empress before you traverse left to the weakness that route takes, about 200 feet up the slab. There is a left facing corner with an old ring piton, this section is often wet after rain and slow to dry in the spring. Victoria starts here. Tackle this shallow corner 5.6+ (crux) to some friction moves (5.5R) before gaining an overlap and continuing to the top of the cliff on easier friction and slabby cracks. The crux is well protected.

A worthwhile route to do if you want some interesting climbing with good protection before the more characteristic smearing.

V1: Pringles, 1 pitch, 200’ (5.7X): A terrific variation to this climb for the soloists breaks off right for the unprotected slab. once you reach the top of the shallow corner, continue up the slab using face holds in the recession until you can traverse right on some edges above a dark bulge to the right (crux) then easier friction tops out to an overlap. Amazing and exposed friction climbing, don’t blow it, then take in the views. 

Location Suggest change

The left facing corner on the left side of the slab with an old ring piton. This is approximately 1/3rd of the way up the slab, left of thanksgiving, right of empress and greensleeves. 

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack, one or two smaller nuts if the 80 year old pin seems questionable.

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