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Routes in Unknown Buttress

Hocus Pocus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
M1 T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Horizons T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 24 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on May 20, 2014
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Currently closed due to rockfall Details

Description

The wall between New Horizons and M1 is taken direct by this classic route. The first pitch is technically demanding, but protected by good in-situ gear. Pitch 2 lacks a well-defined line, being more a 'line of least resistance'. While technically easier, the rock is harder to read and route-finding could be problematic for some.

Start beneath the thin, right-trending crack between the arete and the left-facing corner. Gain the crack (small wires) and follow it to a ledge at about 8m. Step right towards the corner of M1, arrange protection and then move directly up, just to the right of the bolt. Now trend leftwards, passing the bolt, to a piton below a thin roof. Make difficult moves leftwards to a very small left-facing corner through the roof then follow this and the crack above to a good ledge. Belay in a crack on the left.

Pitch 2 starts quite steeply up the crack and pocketed wall, to a good thread (take a thin sling). From here move up slightly on the right, past 4 pitons to the top of the ramp. The route is quite indistinct up here, and the rock tricky to read. However, the climbing is excellent and the fixed pins should provide enough route-finding clues.

Belay on a short metal post set a little back on the ramp.

Location

Start midway between the arete (New Horizons) and the prominent left-facing corner (M1) up a ragged, thin crack.

Protection

Mostly wires, small cams possibly useful for the 1st pitch. There is a bolt and a fixed pin to protect the P1 crux, and P2 has at least 4 fixed pitons and a thread (take a thin sling).

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