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Routes in Unknown Buttress

Hocus Pocus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
M1 T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Horizons T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: R Harrison, A Hall, 7th August 1977
Page Views: 21 total, 0/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Mar 20, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Currently closed due to rockfall Details

Description

An awesome route taking the prominent arete on Unknown Buttress as directly as possible. The first pitch is bold at the bottom, but well protected at the overhang, while the second has good gear at the bottom and less for the easy climbing at the top.

P1 23m 5.10
Start just to the left of the arete, up a slab with horizontal breaks and poor gear. Traverse right where possible, somewhere about mid way up the slab to a ledge just to the right of the arete. Psyche yourself up for some thin moves back left to a piton below the overhang, then pull the overhang (good .75 camalot just above) and climb the arete above to a stance. Nut and cam belay.

P2 25m 5.9+
Step right to a short vertical crack (good nuts) which is followed to its top, then move back left onto the arete. Continue up the arete directly (piton), until easier slab climbing on the left. Alternatively, finish up harder ground on the right. Belay on the ramp from a metal tube some way back from the edge.

Location

The obvious arete leading up to the left-most end of the ramp

Protection

Fixed piton below the overhang and another part way up P2. Some small cams provide psychological help for the P1 slab. Otherwise a set of nuts and mid-size cams should do. Some kind of metal tube provides a belay at the top.

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