Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 237 total · 4/month
Shared By: ehhaole on May 7, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This is a crack line just to the right of Eat a Peach, and referred to our guidebook as an "Unknown 5.9." [zero stars] We discovered this gem when someone in our party wanted to 'warm up on something easy' besides Eat a Peach or the awesome 5.8 further left. It's not a warmup and I can't really recommend it except as a joke, or to the serious trad hardpersons out there (in which case this route might be for you!) It's sharp and jagged, dirty and seldom climbed, which means covered in lichen which may flake off and blow into your eyes, especially if it's windy. There's also a nice pile of dry loose dirt in there somewhere at face level when you're trying to place gear. It's goes from jagged hand jams to a solid fist section (highlight of the route?), then an offwidth to the top. Anything that looks like a useful edge on the offwidth is likely friable rock that will crumble off; remember to leave some of that behind for the next party so that they can experience the full value of this climb. If you all start climbing it, maybe it'll clean up and become a classic trad testpiece! ;)

Location

Chains at the top.

Protection

The start will feel relatively insecure and hard to protect properly unless you are fairly experienced. The offwidth is a body-sized offwidth (6-8"?) But you can clip the bolts on an adjacent route. You may be tempted to step over and finish via a bolted face climb on the left to avoid the offwidth, but keep in mind that with that much rope out, slipping off the face climb could mean decking onto a half-height column just below. So you might as well just finish up the offwidth.

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