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Routes in Bend North

"Unknown 5.9" T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood Lust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cherry Bomb S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dancing Bear T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dwarf Sweat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eat a Peach T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Encouragement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heartbreak of Psoriacis T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Libretto T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Living for the City T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Microcosim S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Milk Truck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
North Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
People, Places and Things T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Reach Deep T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tongue n' Cheek S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Beast T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Winds of Change T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 117 total · 2/month
Shared By: ehhaole on May 7, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is a crack line just to the right of Eat a Peach, and referred to our guidebook as an "Unknown 5.9." [zero stars] We discovered this gem when someone in our party wanted to 'warm up on something easy' besides Eat a Peach or the awesome 5.8 further left. It's not a warmup and I can't really recommend it except as a joke, or to the serious trad hardpersons out there (in which case this route might be for you!) It's sharp and jagged, dirty and seldom climbed, which means covered in lichen which may flake off and blow into your eyes, especially if it's windy. There's also a nice pile of dry loose dirt in there somewhere at face level when you're trying to place gear. It's goes from jagged hand jams to a solid fist section (highlight of the route?), then an offwidth to the top. Anything that looks like a useful edge on the offwidth is likely friable rock that will crumble off; remember to leave some of that behind for the next party so that they can experience the full value of this climb. If you all start climbing it, maybe it'll clean up and become a classic trad testpiece! ;)

Location

Chains at the top.

Protection

The start will feel relatively insecure and hard to protect properly unless you are fairly experienced. The offwidth is a body-sized offwidth (6-8"?) But you can clip the bolts on an adjacent route. You may be tempted to step over and finish via a bolted face climb on the left to avoid the offwidth, but keep in mind that with that much rope out, slipping off the face climb could mean decking onto a half-height column just below. So you might as well just finish up the offwidth.

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ehhaole
Seattle, WA
 
ehhaole   Seattle, WA
 
As my star rating suggests, this route is 'the bomb!' :) May 7, 2014
Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
  5.9+
Nate Redon   Seattle, WA
  5.9+
I climbed this today and actually thought it was pretty fun, definitely not the warmup 5.9 I was looking for though. Nov 8, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
I thought this was good, just dirty. I cleaned out some of the dirt filled hand pods in 2015. Needs a good scrub. 2) #3, #4. Like they say the upper part is a squeeze chimney, protects with a variety of cams not big cams.
This should be left of Blood Lust, otherwise it will be confused with Dwarf Sweat, another 5.9 crack.
oh and it might be 10a
Oh and TAPE the hands, some awkward hand and fist jamming. Mar 1, 2016

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