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Routes in Bend North

"Unknown 5.9" T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood Lust T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cherry Bomb S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dancing Bear T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dwarf Sweat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eat a Peach T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Encouragement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heartbreak of Psoriacis T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Libretto T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Living for the City T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Microcosim S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Milk Truck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
North Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
People, Places and Things T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Reach Deep T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tongue n' Cheek S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Beast T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Winds of Change T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ed Mosshart, Andy Fitz, Oct. 1989
Page Views: 121 total, 4/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Aug 18, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This route gets 3 stars in Yoder's book so I had to try it, also one of the few routes in the shade. I was not a fan of this bear hugging the column with no foot holds after the 2nd bolt with a ways to the 3rd bolt. A good challenge to figure out.

Location

Start crack is 3rd left over from People Places Things. This is a dirty ledge up left from the wall with Eat a Peach, passing 2 broken leaning columns.

Protection

I think the dirty hand crack to off width is the approach on the right side of column, left side face that I went up had no pro for 25 feet. Some small cams can supplement the 5 bolts. Rusty chain and bolts with thin SMC hangers up top. Bring cordellete to bring anchor out over sharp top if TR.

Photos

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Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
  5.10-
Nate Redon   Seattle, WA
  5.10-
Be aware of the potential for rope slicing falls if you wander too far to the sides (happened to us this past weekend). Quite a few thin SMC hangers as well. Nov 10, 2015