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Routes in Bend North

"Unknown 5.9" T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood Lust T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cherry Bomb S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dancing Bear T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dwarf Sweat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eat a Peach T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Encouragement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heartbreak of Psoriacis T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Libretto T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Living for the City T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Microcosim S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Milk Truck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
North Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
People, Places and Things T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Reach Deep T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tongue n' Cheek S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Beast T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Winds of Change T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Norm Reid
Page Views: 294 total, 10/month
Shared By: Josh Baxley on Jul 28, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

First half of the route is sustained insecure technical stemming on a thin finger crack. Midway up the pitch it gets a bit easier as the crack widens to good finger jams.

If you can't get good finger locks in a #1 master cam / .2 X4, this route will feel hard for the grade.

Location

Thin crack to the right of Eat a Peach. Shares anchor with this route.

Protection

Many small cams and nuts. I don't recall placing anything larger than a .4 camelot, but you might want to bring .5 or .75 in case.

Photos

Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
  5.10d PG13
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
  5.10d PG13
I agree on going really heavy on small to medium stoppers. I didn't get around to even fiddling with the gear (didn't feel like shitting myself), but it seemed like brass RP/IMPs would be handy to deal with some of the goofy edges/bumps that you find at tieton. I can see how the angle would make fiddling placements in damn tricky.

Good fingers for me are yellow totem/.4 BD. I start going thumb up for pinky around green alien/.3 BD. My partner has smaller fingers and she found the start easier than I did, but still hard for the grade. Apr 10, 2017
slim

  5.10c/d PG13
slim    
  5.10c/d PG13
man, i am glad to hear somebody else say that. i did this one a couple weeks ago. i haven't been climbing much lately, and not many cracks, but this felt challenging in a lot of ways. the gear looks really straight forward, but when you actually go to place it, it is very easy to place gear that isn't great. the corner also leans a bit to the "bald" side, which adds to the stress when you are trying to tinker in some gear.

bring a shit ton of small to medium stoppers. Apr 10, 2017
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
  5.10d PG13
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
  5.10d PG13
Holy crap this was hard for the grade on the start. Really insecure tips, very few solid jams on the first 1/4 of it. Might be easier later in season with traffic wearing lichen off right face for more secure smears. Much harder than pure joy IMO, even just on TR. Apr 10, 2017