Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Ed Mosshart, May 1988
Page Views: 965 total · 9/month
Shared By: Geoff Georges on Jul 27, 2015
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

You & This Route

7 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Currently closed (2021) due to nesting eagles. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Great route.
I entered this at the FA given rating of 10b.
 It is really sustained and insecure, feels more like 10c/d. Starts with tough finger crack, splitter hand jams up top gets wider as you go. Stemming options on Heartbreak to the left which is so close it seems fine to me, it splits off after the hard start.

Location Suggest change

Right of Heartbreak of Psoriasis.

Protection Suggest change

double rack to 3", #4 good up top.There is no anchor, you could make a anchor with hand size gear or cordellete on column, or traverse left to Winds of Change anchor, 60 meter rope works for rappel.