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Routes in Bend North

"Unknown 5.9" T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood Lust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cherry Bomb S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dancing Bear T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dwarf Sweat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eat a Peach T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Encouragement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heartbreak of Psoriacis T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Libretto T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Living for the City T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Microcosim S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Milk Truck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
North Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
People, Places and Things T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Reach Deep T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tongue n' Cheek S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Beast T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Winds of Change T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Ed Mosshart, May 1988
Page Views: 216 total · 6/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Jul 27, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description [Edit]

Great route.
I entered this at the FA given rating of 10b.
 It is really sustained and insecure, feels more like 10c/d. Starts with tough finger crack, splitter hand jams up top gets wider as you go. Stemming options on Heartbreak to the left which is so close it seems fine to me, it splits off after the hard start.

Location [Edit]

Right of Heartbreak of Psoriasis.

Protection [Edit]

double rack to 3", #4 good up top.There is no anchor, you could make a anchor with hand size gear or cordellete on column, or traverse left to Winds of Change anchor, 60 meter rope works for rappel.

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Joshua Thompson
Seattle, WA
 
Joshua Thompson   Seattle, WA
 
This is a sandbag rating for this, don't be fooled. When it says it feels like 10c/d, that's because it's at least that. And what's referred to as a finger crack is so thin that I had to use micro nuts to aid part of it because I couldn't even get my finger tips in a section of it. I can see it being doable if you're stemming left onto the other route but it's exactly that, another route. Anyway, it was really hard for me. I climbed the 10.c to the left of it to grab my bail nut and that route was actually enjoyable. Sep 18, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Thanks Joshua.
You can suggest a rating. MP will give a weighted average to all ratings with the original rating having a larger weight. But with enough suggested ratings, the original will be overridden. Sep 19, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10
I entered it as 10b because that was the rating given by the first ascent. For some reason all the routes on this face are really hard for their given ratings when compared to the West Bend routes and Royal Columns. But I think it is fair, most ratings are soft in Wa., we just need to humble ourselves, or get better. But I did add that I think it is 10+.
I don't know what Ed intended with the grade, but whatever my body parts can reach are in for me on outdoor routes, there are no tape or color holds to follow. Sep 19, 2016

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