Heartbreak of Psoriacis
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 1.9 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||Ed Mosshart, Andy Fitz, April 1988|
|Page Views:||668 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||geoff georges on Jul 27, 2015|
|Admins:||Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
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Access Issue: Currently closed (2021) due to nesting eagles. Details
This route is listed as 10c in Yoder's book, we thought it significantly harder then Pure Joy or any other 10c at the Bend, except for Living for the City which is also a sandbag. You will want to tape up, especially fingers, very sharp awkward moves that never really let up. This route is consistently harder then Winds of change.
Right of Winds of Change, left of Dancing Bear, which is really close providing plenty of cheating if you are willing to compromise your single crack onsight.
nuts work well, as they often do at Tieton, a good strategy is to have a set of nuts seperated out on quick draws ( this way they are ready to toss in over your head quickly). Tripple up on finger size cams, rack to 2". Very convoluted top out. We traversed over to chain anchor above Winds of Change, but you could lasso a column with a cordellete or make a gear anchor with #1, #2. A 60 meter rope works for the rappel.
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