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Heartbreak of Psoriacis
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2 from 7
votes
Routes in Bend North
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"Unknown 5.9" T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Alar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blood Lust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cherry Bomb S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dancing Bear T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dwarf Sweat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Eat a Peach T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Encouragement T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Heartbreak of Psoriacis T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jungle Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Libretto T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Living for the City T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Microcosim S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Milk Truck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mutiny in Manila T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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North Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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People, Places and Things T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Reach Deep T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tongue n' Cheek S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unfit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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What's Left? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Wild Beast T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Winds of Change T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Ed Mosshart, Andy Fitz, April 1988 |
| Page Views: | 495 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | geoff georges on Jul 27, 2015 |
| Admins: | Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters |
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Description
This route is listed as 10c in Yoder's book, we thought it significantly harder then Pure Joy or any other 10c at the Bend, except for Living for the City which is also a sandbag. You will want to tape up, especially fingers, very sharp awkward moves that never really let up. This route is consistently harder then Winds of change.
Location
Right of Winds of Change, left of Dancing Bear, which is really close providing plenty of cheating if you are willing to compromise your single crack onsight.
Protection
nuts work well, as they often do at Tieton, a good strategy is to have a set of nuts seperated out on quick draws ( this way they are ready to toss in over your head quickly). Tripple up on finger size cams, rack to 2". Very convoluted top out. We traversed over to chain anchor above Winds of Change, but you could lasso a column with a cordellete or make a gear anchor with #1, #2. A 60 meter rope works for the rappel.
Photos
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