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Diedre Sud T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Heart of Darkness/New Morning T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 91 total · 2/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Apr 16, 2014
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

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Description

The soaring central corner is tackled at a surprisingly amenable grade by this fantastic route. The line is unmistakeable, the rock is good, and you get all the atmosphere of the cliff's harder offerings.

From tidal ledges, start up the corner, mainly on the left wall, on huge holds and with plentiful protection to a series of ledges at about 15m. Optional belay on the more spacious of these.

Continue up the steepening corner, making use of the crack in the left wall and a variety of jamming and stemming techniques, to a small roof. Turn the roof on the left and continue up the wide crack above to the top. Belay stake well back.

Location

The unmissable central corner of the cliff. Abseil down the line from a stake set well back from the edge to tidal ledges. Plenty of threads and features to construct an anchor at the bottom.

Protection

Plenty of big nuts, hexes are more reassuring than cams in the uneven cracks, but either will suffice.

Photos

Sean Maher
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Sean Maher   Santa Barbara, CA
 
Fun route and a good one for getting used to sea cliff climbing. It's difficult to get a good photo of your partner, but it would be easy to take excellent climbing photos from a static line anchored to the sea stake at the top. Oct 10, 2016

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