All Locations > International > Europe > United Kingdom > Wales > Pembroke > Stackpole and Lyd… > Mowing Word
Heart of Darkness/New Morning
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||190 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||Nick Russell on Apr 15, 2014|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell|
DescriptionA classic link-up of 2 very good lines: intimidating, committing and serious for both leader and second. The first pitch (Heart of Darkness) is a traverse of the obvious breaks at about half height, while the second (New Morning) is a hand-fist crack to the top. E1 4c,5b in British.
From the ledges, climb up and left to the arete, from which you can peer round at the route. Continue up to the series of breaks: you want your hands in the top one for the most part. Now the route is obvious: traverse the breaks to the left, above a sea cave, into a corner and back out to belay just round the arete. The most comfortable belay ledge is a few feet above the breaks, but if you want to see your second, extending it and hanging on the arete is the best option.
The hands are all there, but sometimes you are left wanting for feet. The protection is good: plug a cam in just about anywhere (if you have enough!). Good rope management is necessary, and as the belayer can't see the leader, communication is difficult. A fall for either member of the party will have you swinging in free space, no option other than to prussic back up the rope.
The second pitch is a finely positioned climb straight up the strenuous jamming crack directly above the belay. Protection is plentiful, and the climbing is never desperate. Belay at a stake well back.