The soaring central corner is tackled at a surprisingly amenable grade by this fantastic route. The line is unmistakeable, the rock is good, and you get all the atmosphere of the cliff's harder offerings.

From tidal ledges, start up the corner, mainly on the left wall, on huge holds and with plentiful protection to a series of ledges at about 15m. Optional belay on the more spacious of these.

Continue up the steepening corner, making use of the crack in the left wall and a variety of jamming and stemming techniques, to a small roof. Turn the roof on the left and continue up the wide crack above to the top. Belay stake well back.

The unmissable central corner of the cliff. Abseil down the line from a stake set well back from the edge to tidal ledges. Plenty of threads and features to construct an anchor at the bottom.

Plenty of big nuts, hexes are more reassuring than cams in the uneven cracks, but either will suffice.