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Routes in Mowing Word

Diedre Sud T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Heart of Darkness/New Morning T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

A spectacular cliff, about 40m high, vertical to overhanging, big on atmosphere. The traverse above the cave, Heart of Darkness, is not to be missed: great holds, excellent protection, outrageous exposure!

The best view of the cliff is from across the bay to the East. From here you can clearly see the central corner of Diedre Sud, the roof band at half height, and the series of horizontal breaks just below, traversed by Heart of Darkness. All climbs are accessed by abseil, so it's best to take a good look from here on the approach to ensure you abseil off in the right place!

It has a Westerly aspect, so it can be greasy until the sun comes round in the afternoon. Most routes are tidal, though if you know what you're doing it's possible to abseil down to a hanging belay above the high tide line on a lot of routes. There used to be restrictions on climbing here during the nesting season, but these have recently been lifted (as of spring 2014). They could come back, so best to check before setting off there.

Getting There

From Pembroke, take the B4319 towards Bosherton/Castlemartin range, and keep following the signs to Bosherton. Just after passing the St Govans Inn, take a left, and follow this road all the way to a National Trust car park at its end (free for NT members; ~£5/day for everyone else).

Follow the coast path East, across a beach and continue past another, smaller bay and a narrow zawn. From here you should be able to see Mowing Word on the next peninsula.

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