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Routes in Mothership Cliff

Barracuda S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blood Sport S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Catch and Release S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Excelsior S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fight Club S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Holey Wars S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Living Dead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Northern Pike S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Piranha S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sea Monkey S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Steelhead S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Patrick O'Donnell
Page Views: 517 total · 9/month
Shared By: Patrick O'Donnell on Nov 19, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details


Start 20 feet right of Excelsior below a chossy crack system. Climb up some jumbly rock clipping a few bolts until you get to an arete with crack out right. Though people have climbed more in the crack down low you do not need to. Laybacks with bomber kneebars is another option. Above the alcove do some weird stems in the chimney crack and get to a stance with some hard face moves moving left into a thin finger crack. A couple cruxy traverse moves at a bolt leads to a stance where you clip the last bolt. Continue up the thin seam mostly face climbing to an anchor.


Right of Excelsior.




Patrick O'Donnell
Patrick O'Donnell  
I think it's like 13 bolts or so? Cannot recall. I re-bolted the top half because people were not liking the hard clips out left. much better now. As it turns out most people climb in the crack, which I never really intended but oh well. I've cleaned up the crack a bit and will continue climbing and cleaning it. Mar 29, 2014
Had fun on this thing but have to admit every time I tried to leave the crack I found the moves outside too difficult and kept getting pulled back in. Rained a ton of dirt down on my poor belayer. Are you calling this 11- if you stay on the face Patrick? Not sure I can justify a tick the way I did it. Also kinda hard to star as the face out left looked clean but I managed to find all the choss. Got some great jams though. I hope this thing gets climbed and cleaned more. Feb 12, 2016
Patrick O'Donnell
Patrick O'Donnell  
Yes I took it left to follow the seam. Going straight up the crack is a choss pile so I avoided that. I know. Hard moves going left but didn't seem like there was any good alternative. 11a,b,c? Hard to say for me so I'll leave it to you all. Apr 18, 2016
Patrick O'Donnell
Patrick O'Donnell  
I came back to this route after not climbing it for several years and realized the 2nd to last bolt at the traverse face move is in the wrong spot and is contrived and makes the route horrible. I moved that bolt yesterday so you can clip it easy from the crack out right and do the hard traverse face moves right at the bolt. Seems WAY better now. Sorry about that folks! May 21, 2017
Marek Hajek
Reno, NV
Marek Hajek   Reno, NV
The Location doesn't seem right - it says left of Excelsior, while the description says right of Excelsior.
I was curious, where did you intend to climb left of the crack? Right from the ground or at some bolt higher up? May 29, 2017
Patrick O'Donnell
Patrick O'Donnell  
Ooops! That was a typo. Yes it is RIGHT of Excelsior. Jun 2, 2017

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