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Routes in Mothership Cliff

Barracuda S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blood Sport S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Catch and Release S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Excelsior S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fight Club S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Holey Wars S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Living Dead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Northern Pike S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Piranha S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sea Monkey S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Steelhead S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: bolted by Todd Graham back in the 90's - never truly redpointed until 2012
Page Views: 4,300 total, 63/month
Shared By: Katiebird on Apr 10, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Amazing route on some of the best rock in the Gorge. It's climbing minimalism at it's best. Long moves on very thin holds. There are two rests before the last crux section which climbs through a mono - then you gotta hold on for the pump until the end. Powerful and techy.

Location

At the Mothership Cliff on the smooth face to the right of Piranha

Protection

Bolted
Todd Graham
Sierra Eastside, CA
 
Todd Graham   Sierra Eastside, CA
 
I looked at this face for years...then i finally asked Kevin Leary if I could bolt it (he had a red-tagged bolt at the bottom). Kevin was cool and said go for it. I worked this thing many times ... and had quite a few holds break on me. I TR'd it 3 times clean ... but didn't have the guns to hold on and clip for the RP. Katie called me and asked if she could work on it and I said ok. I put an anchor atop the line to the right ... should be another fine thin one. Sep 25, 2015
Brilliant hard and sustained route. True gorge power endurance test piece. Much failure on this one before red-pointing. I'd give it 13c. Mar 29, 2014
Tom Helvie
Bishop, CA
  5.13b
Tom Helvie   Bishop, CA
  5.13b
Best hard route in the gorge. Sustained crimping on bullet rock. Thanks Todd G. for hooking this thing up. Apr 11, 2012