Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Beckham & Bates 1995
Page Views: 914 total · 6/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Nov 28, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Description

Northern Pike and its neighbor, Living Dead, make a great one-two punch for the 5.11 climber. Throw in Catch-n-Release and Bird of Prey and you've got a four round knockout.

Start on the right side of Mothership, on a north facing wall with a couple of impossible looking climbs to the right of it. Pass three bolts (~5.9), go left (right would put you on Fight Club, 13b) across an arete to a couple of easy moves, clip a what-for? bolt (apparently it directs the rope over a favorable section of the arete) then clip the 5th bolt with a longer sling than you'd like. Getting to the 6th bolt is the crux and quite involved for the reach challenged. The climbing from here on is extremely enjoyable -- steep and stimulating on fabulous rock.

This pitch might feel slightly run-out. (It has six fewer bolts than the Living Dead which is 10' longer.) A small nut can be placed between the 5th and 6th bolts, taking some of the bite out of the pike.

Location

At the northern/right end of MC.

Protection

9 bolts.

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