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Routes in Mothership Cliff

Barracuda S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blood Sport S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Catch and Release S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Excelsior S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fight Club S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Holey Wars S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Living Dead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Northern Pike S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Piranha S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sea Monkey S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Steelhead S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 10535 ft
FA: Patrick O'Donnell
Page Views: 753 total, 15/month
Shared By: Patrick O'Donnell on Nov 19, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Do the beginning part of Sea Monkey up the chossy crack but about midway where you get to a stance on Sea Monkey clip bolts out right on the Arete and go into the steep arete just left of Holy Macerol. The open moves moving onto the arete on Steelhead are cruxy for a couple bolts (V4 boulder problem). From there continue up the beautiful arete for quite a ways with fun 5.11 climbing on good quality rock. There's one final (11+) heart break crux just before clipping the anchor out right. Rope stretching 35m pitch! The arete is super good quality rock and exposed!

Location

Left of Holy Macerol. Right of Sea Monkey and Excelsior.

Protection

bolts

Photos

Correct it splits off. Both routes share the same (somewhat crappy) start up the chimney. Gorge chimneys are never pretty. Unfortunately that was really the only option to get to the Arete (steelhead) and the seam (sea monkey). Jun 2, 2017
Marek Hajek
Reno, NV
Marek Hajek   Reno, NV
I haven't been on this one yet. Is it intended to split out right where the bolt line splits or where the blue line is drawn on the photo? The blue line on the photo seems to split off where the second bolt is after the bolt line splits. May 30, 2017
Vlad, I recently got back on Steelhead and moved 4 bolts and added a new anchor. After several years not climbing on it and going back I realized several clips at the first crux and up high before the anchor were totally contrived and difficult the clip. Sorry folks! Nobody likes routes like that so I fixed the route yesterday. Should be way better and more fun and not scary now! Enjoy! May 21, 2017
Vlad S
  5.12b
Vlad S  
  5.12b
The opening crux on the overhanging part of the arete is very contrived and is the worst part of the climb. It can be climbed around by staying in the chimney for another move to a big horizontal rail, while still clipping all the bolts. Would have been 4 stars if not for this. The upper arete is superb and the upper crux was a lot of fun and very exposed. Totally worth getting on! Thanks for this addition. May 26, 2015
I moved the first bolt that you clip as you move from the crack "Sea Monkey" shared start. It was ridiculously hard to clip so i moved it a little more left. Should be better now. Apr 28, 2014
Nice POD, looking forward to trying this one! Nov 19, 2013