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Routes in Tenderloins Wall

Beat the Meat 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Carne Diem T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Chopped Liver T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Heinz 58 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Incredible Spam Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jones-in T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mad Cow Disease T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Potted Meat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Question Mark, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rump Roast T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Slaughter House, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Steer It Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tenderloins T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Tinderloins T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Far Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed (1) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed (5) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed Sandbag T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Steve Hong?
Page Views: 463 total · 8/month
Shared By: D-Storm on Nov 8, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This pitch starts with a fingery boulder problem over a roof to get off the ground. From there, the crack widens to 1.5 inches and changes from a shallow left-facing corner to a right-facing corner in excellent varnish. This part of the wall doesn't seem to get as many visitors as other classic lines, so be ready to deal with some sandiness and maybe bring extras of the smaller sizes for backup.

Location [Suggest Change]

Starts off the left end of the big ledge where Tenderloins starts. Scramble up below Tenderloins and traverse back left. Rump Roast is the beautiful vertical crack that slices up through a shallow corner that changes from left- to right-facing. Hard to miss.

Protection [Suggest Change]

The old Bloom guide was pretty accurate: (4) .75, (2) 1.0, (6) 1.5, (3) 2.0, (1) 2.5. However, I was happy that I brought extras of the three smaller sizes due to the sandy crack. Material to replace the anchor tat might also be a good idea. (My partner replaced it October 2013.)

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