Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Steve Hong?
Page Views: 498 total · 8/month
Shared By: D-Storm on Nov 8, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This pitch starts with a fingery boulder problem over a roof to get off the ground. From there, the crack widens to 1.5 inches and changes from a shallow left-facing corner to a right-facing corner in excellent varnish. This part of the wall doesn't seem to get as many visitors as other classic lines, so be ready to deal with some sandiness and maybe bring extras of the smaller sizes for backup.

Location

Starts off the left end of the big ledge where Tenderloins starts. Scramble up below Tenderloins and traverse back left. Rump Roast is the beautiful vertical crack that slices up through a shallow corner that changes from left- to right-facing. Hard to miss.

Protection

The old Bloom guide was pretty accurate: (4) .75, (2) 1.0, (6) 1.5, (3) 2.0, (1) 2.5. However, I was happy that I brought extras of the three smaller sizes due to the sandy crack. Material to replace the anchor tat might also be a good idea. (My partner replaced it October 2013.)

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