Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: C. Stoker and E. Parcell, 11/8/2019
Page Views: 46 total · 20/month
Shared By: Charlie S on Nov 11, 2019
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - now open 10/11/19 Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

WAY far right on the Tenderloins wall.  A delicate but easier-than-it-looks face climbing move protected by micros gains the crack proper.  Go through all the sizes, a mantle, two pods, and a sweet hidden flake jug to gain the chains.

It's a fun route, but with such quality lines like Prime Cuts, Incredible Spam Crack, and Heinz 58, it's hard to give more than 2 stars.  However, this would be a 4-star route at Selfish Wall.

Note: this could probably take a second pitch.  Bring some more small gear and add to the fun if you desire.

Location

Past Incredible Spam Crack by another 5 minutes.  You'll pass a new anchors on a chimney thing.  Look for a pokey bush guarding the start.

Protection

Blue/green aliens and a micro for the start, then everything from #0.3 to #4.

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