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Routes in Tenderloins Wall

Beat the Meat 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Carne Diem T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Chopped Liver T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Heinz 58 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Incredible Spam Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jones-in T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mad Cow Disease T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Potted Meat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Question Mark, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rump Roast T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Slaughter House, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Steer It Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tenderloins T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Tinderloins T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Far Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed (1) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed (5) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed Sandbag T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
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Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Equipping: Livingston, Guttang FFA: Aaron Livingston
Page Views: 222 total · 13/month
Shared By: AL . on Apr 15, 2017
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Meat Day! What an awesome, varied and unique addition to the Tenderloins Wall! Start up the first 20 feet of "Steer it Up" until you gain a ledge. Traverse left and clip a bolt at the base of an improbable looking boulder problem (much harder if you're short). Climb the cruxy boulder problem, clipping a second bolt and pull into a series of flares. The first protects with micro cams and features techy climbing the second has good fingers. Rest up and fire thru the finger crack until it thins out and you switch into another finger crack. Try and milk a rest below the mini roof and then pull into a thin tips crack at the top. One last stretch of difficult tips splitter to a less than tips boulder problem guard the anchor at the top.

This thing had been unclimbed for 2 obvious reasons. A 10 foot tall keyed in block halfway up the pitch (this thing was barely hanging on and was honestly a huge hazard to people lowering off of Steer it Up), and the less than obvious boulder problem start to gain the crack. It could have been an independent line with the use of 2-3 more bolts but I felt the proximity to Steer it Up made it unnecessary.

You MIGHT be able to lower to the pillar with a 70 meter rope. I've only ever used an 80 meter and that leaves about 20 feet of rope on the ground, be sure to tie a back up knot.

Location

Shares a start with "Steer it Up" then traverses left on the ledge.

Protection

2 quickdraws, (1 each) .1 x4, Green C3, .2 x4, (5) Blue Metolius, (3) .3's, (4) .4's, (1) Orange Metolius, (1 each) .5-2.0, long runners for the start.

Photos

Looks great! Good write up. Well done. Apr 15, 2017

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