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Routes in Tenderloins Wall

Beat the Meat 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Carne Diem T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Chopped Liver T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Heinz 58 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Incredible Spam Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jones-in T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mad Cow Disease T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Potted Meat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Question Mark, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rump Roast T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Slaughter House , The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Steer It Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tenderloins T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Tinderloins T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Far Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed (1) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed (5) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed Sandbag T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,365 total, 16/month
Shared By: Vince MacMillan on Oct 21, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Very Fun!: MANY PERFECT HAND JAMS (for very very very large hands, i.e., closer to fists than cupped hands). But: The looseness of the hands forced me to focus on my feet which, if you are a hack like myself, is always helpful. Could might possibly be great fist jamming for the very slight-handed.

Apparently this is climbed relatively rarely for such a long, moderate, and varied route in a relatively popular area (Its the second route left of Incredible Spam Crack, in a left facing crack system).

CAVEAT: It seems that the BLM's so-called 'maintenance engineers' have been goldbricking during their nightly vacuuming rounds as there is a little bit of loose rock and sand near the middle of this route. Could someone direct me to the Complaints Department? Thank you. . . .

Protection

Typical El Cap Free Rack: Approximately 20-25 (gulp!) pieces (Camalot Sizes):.5 through 4, heavy on the 2's and 3's. Several runners and quickdraws, too. (Bloom's list is dead on.) Probably gonna want a gear sling for all of that, champ.

Photos

slim

  5.10c
slim    
  5.10c
the route in the photos is steer it up. i think your gear list and vince's are pretty similar(?). off fingers to thin hands start, and a long stretch of big hands. Feb 18, 2013
Josh Ewing
Bluff, UT
  5.10+
Josh Ewing   Bluff, UT
  5.10+
The route pictured and described here is great. You can just barely make it down with an 80 meter rope. 70 isn't close.

I'm not really sure this is the route Bloom describes as Steer It Up. If so, his gear beta is way off, and the topo just doesn't look too much like it. There is another long 5.10 ish looking corner, which is clearly right facing, another 50 yards further left (west out on the ledge shown in the Bloom topo), which seems to fit his description better.

This route is only maybe 20 yards left of Incredible Spam and Heinz. Highly recommended. Mostly hands and wide hands, with a thin hands start. No off width piece (4 cam) is needed. a couple of 4 friends are nice, but not necessary. Bring lots of 3 camalots or 3.5 friends and a good number of 3 friends (or 2 camalots). Feb 17, 2013
slim

  5.10c
slim    
  5.10c
it's a long route, iirc a 70 won't even come close. i'm not sure a single 80 would even do it. probably about 150'. Oct 15, 2012
Buddy Tangalos
Salt Lake City
Buddy Tangalos   Salt Lake City
Can this rope be done with a single 70m? Wanted to get on it, but wasn't sure if I'd be able to get back to the ground with one rope.

Thanks! Oct 15, 2012
If this route were closer to the road it would get a ton of traffic...it's sweet. The crux is at the bottom...in my opinion. After that, the hand jamming is beautiful. The 25 pieces of pro is a bit hefty...I used around 14 and by no means consider myself a bold leader that loves run-out. Just my $.02. Apr 9, 2007