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Routes in Left Wall

Cause for Pause S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crystalean P1 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Longing S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Leonids S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
MaƱana S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Meteor S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Burritos P1 T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Burritos, P2 T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parallel Universe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rampage T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snakes In The Grass S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Triton Tower S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Route 16 T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Urge to Merge S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,115 total, 23/month
Shared By: bspiewak on Nov 5, 2013
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

The intention of the first ascentionist is uncertain, as the high quality second half of the route lay hidden in obscurity under the dirt and grass of the first half of the route. With some recent excavation, a bit more cleaning, and some rain, the starting crack system will clean up well enough for the purpose it serves.

The route serves as a great way to start at the (lower) Left Wall and climb through to routes on the Blue Sky Wall, especially Buffalo Brothers, Closer to the Sun, The Space Between, and the 5.8 upper pitch of Cause for Pause.

The left most line on the lower "Left Wall".
To the right of the large, broken, right facing corner, the start is identified by the hand crack rising out of the dirty wide crack off the ground.

Pitch 1. Single cams, 1/2" to 3". 70' Bolted anchor/rap. When the dirty crack system ends at the start of the cleaner wall, about 50' up, step left past the crux to transfer into a left trending crack that will deposit you at the anchor bolts 30' higher.

You can also climb the first four bolts of Left Longing (the first line of bolts to the right of the start) at the same grade and avoid the starting crack, although you'll still want .6"-1.5" cams to protect the crux.

Pitch 2. Bolts. 120'. Nice face climbing following the bolts joins you into the last two bolts of the Ramp.
Either stop here, or continue up the 3rd class slab another 30' to another bolted anchor/rap station, the start of Buffalo Brothers

If you want to rappel from the Ramp anchor, keep in mind it's about 120' back to the Rampage anchor/rap. You will need to look to rappellers right and use the 140' rap anchor of Left Longing, and rappel once more to the ground.

It is also possible to rappel from the Buffalo Brothers belay anchor 90' to the Left Longing anchor that is 140' off the ground.

Protection

Single cams, 1/2" to 3".

Photos

Lzpup Brewster
santee, ca
Lzpup Brewster   santee, ca
Had fun on left longing, bring some nuts for the top bit , anchor is a bit away from the last bolt. Apr 6, 2015
BJ Cook
San Diego, California
  5.8
BJ Cook   San Diego, California
  5.8
Pitch 1 - We did Left Longing and placed pro in the slanted crack that lead up to the left. Belay had a little ledge that both of us stood on. One person will get two comfy feet, while other may get only one.

Pitch 2 - You get what you get throughout this climb. Starts off pretty easy, then I got to bolt under roof, where I needed to clip then almost transition down into a little finger pad deep traverse, hand over hand, wide stance to get onto route. That's the crux, at least for me. The rest goes pretty easy as it transitions into 3rd class, high-featured patina. This is about 30 feet up to bolts by the start of Buffalo Brothers. Dec 22, 2014