Type: Trad, Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,970 total · 24/month
Shared By: bspiewak on Nov 5, 2013
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The intention of the first ascentionist is uncertain, as the high quality second half of the route lay hidden in obscurity under the dirt and grass of the first half of the route. With some recent excavation, a bit more cleaning, and some rain, the starting crack system will clean up well enough for the purpose it serves.

The route serves as a great way to start at the (lower) Left Wall and climb through to routes on the Blue Sky Wall, especially Buffalo Brothers, Closer to the Sun, The Space Between, and the 5.8 upper pitch of Cause for Pause.

The left most line on the lower "Left Wall".
To the right of the large, broken, right facing corner, the start is identified by the hand crack rising out of the dirty wide crack off the ground.

Pitch 1. Single cams, 1/2" to 3". 70' Bolted anchor/rap. When the dirty crack system ends at the start of the cleaner wall, about 50' up, step left past the crux to transfer into a left trending crack that will deposit you at the anchor bolts 30' higher.

You can also climb the first four bolts of Left Longing (the first line of bolts to the right of the start) at the same grade and avoid the starting crack, although you'll still want .6"-1.5" cams to protect the crux.

Pitch 2. Bolts. 120'. Nice face climbing following the bolts joins you into the last two bolts of the Ramp.
Either stop here, or continue up the 3rd class slab another 30' to another bolted anchor/rap station, the start of Buffalo Brothers

If you want to rappel from the Ramp anchor, keep in mind it's about 120' back to the Rampage anchor/rap. You will need to look to rappellers right and use the 140' rap anchor of Left Longing, and rappel once more to the ground.

It is also possible to rappel from the Buffalo Brothers belay anchor 90' to the Left Longing anchor that is 140' off the ground.

Protection

Single cams, 1/2" to 3".

Photos