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Routes in Left Wall

Cause for Pause S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crystalean P1 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Longing S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Leonids S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
MaƱana S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Meteor S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Burritos P1 T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Burritos, P2 T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parallel Universe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rampage T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snakes In The Grass S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Triton Tower S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Route 16 T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Urge to Merge S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 160 ft
FA: Brian Spiewak
Page Views: 1,407 total, 13/month
Shared By: Dave Daly on May 2, 2009
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Start by heading up the open slab. The San Diego County Climbing guide shows a 5.10 crux on this slab. NOT! A few moves of 5.8+, nothing harder there. Continue up to a large flake (pro to .25 to 7.5') then head to the 4th bolt. Steeper terrain awaits as you move past bolt #5. Balance, edge and crank up past bolt #6 (the .10a crux). Once past bolt #6, face climb to the right, along the upper edge of a slanting slab. Head to the anchor that is located at the top of the slab. Best option is to set the anchor on the slab and belay from the anchor bolts (rings) 8' to the right. Best rappel is from the anchor with rings (the same anchor for pitch #2 of 'Pause For Cause'). Two raps makes it back to terra firma.

  • Special Note*
Be aware that this route sits under the big roofs above (a source of water runoff). So be prepared to encounter some slick sections of rock in the steeper sections. Also, the SDC guidebook posts a "One star" rating for this route. Certainly better than that, in this page authors opinion.

Location

Located approximately 100 feet left of the Leonids Wall and approximately 30 feet right of a broken right facing dihedral. A clean orange slab with three bolts leading up to higher ground marks 'Snakes In The Grass'.

Protection

- 9 draws (for bolts)
- .25 to .75" (Aliens and Camelot Jr.'s work fine)
- a few 2' slings and biners for the trad pro

Photos

bspiewak  
 
There is now a two bolt rap/lower off anchor at 100'.
You can still climb to the anchor above if you want to. Nov 5, 2013
I did this route today. Maybe I missed some key holds, but I did feel parts of the slab borderlined on 5.10 (I somewhat remember the part past the second bolt to be a bit tricky). The two bulges above felt like the cruxes. Overall a good route for a 5.10 climber. Every time it felt like it was going to get tough, a key hold would appear that helps you pull through. Also, long slings are somewhat helpful at the top of the route to avoid rope drag, but not necessary. Mar 4, 2012